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The Fondleers Trad Climb at Wrinkle Dome

Squamish, Canada
trad
slab
crack climbing
multi-pitch
granite
exposed
classic
west coast
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
The Fondleers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Fondleers offers a classic three-pitch trad experience on Wrinkle Dome’s granite, blending technical slab and crack climbing with rewarding exposure and stunning views just outside Squamish. This route tests precision and endurance across varied terrain, making it an engaging choice for experienced trad climbers seeking a solid West Coast challenge."

The Fondleers Trad Climb at Wrinkle Dome

The Fondleers trail a compelling line on Wrinkle Dome, a granite face etched with clean cracks and subtle face holds that challenge climbers with both finesse and power. This three-pitch trad route sits within the iconic Gondolarium sector near Squamish, British Columbia—a landscape where rugged wilderness meets well-trodden climbing heritage. From the start, a small slab marked by streaks of black mineral deposits sets the tone: a precise and committed move is needed to gain the initial crack that offers safer passage upwards. As you advance, the rock’s personality shifts; the middle pitch offers a breather with easier crack climbing that links the more demanding ledges, allowing you to sense the granite’s silent grit underfoot.

The final pitch demands focused effort as the face climbing escalates to a 5.10c challenge, testing both balance and finger strength. Hand jams, laybacks, and subtle smears interplay over expertly shaped granite, pushing you to maintain control where exposure begins to play a louder role in the experience. The fading light emphasizes the wall’s features, casting shadows that highlight every hold and crack, making the climb a measured dance of nature and skill.

Gear-wise, a standard rack suffices, but you’ll want everything from smaller cams to mid-sized protection to protect the varying crack widths encountered. The rock quality is solid, offering confident placements, though the occasional black streak slab requires attentiveness to footwork. Approaching Wrinkle Dome is a straightforward venture from Squamish, with a well-worn trail that ascends through mixed forest and occasional granite outcrops, offering glimpses of the surrounding Howe Sound fjord below as you climb higher.

For any climber aiming to experience The Fondleers, timing is key. Early mornings or late afternoon sessions keep you in the shade while avoiding the peak sun that heats the granite uncomfortably in summer. This climb blends the raw outdoors with technical challenge, a route that respects your skills while giving back rewards in the form of sweeping views and the thrill of movement on classic West Coast rock. Whether the goal is training for harder granite endeavors or simply savoring a solid multi-pitch adventure, The Fondleers stands ready to test your edge with clear, accessible beta and a steady dose of climbing satisfaction.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention on the initial slab pitch where black mineral streaks reduce friction, demanding focused foot placements. The route's exposure makes falls more serious, so ensure solid protection placements and maintain cautious movement, especially on the upper face where holds are less obvious.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid strong midday sun on the slab sections.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for optimal friction on the black-streaked slab.

Bring a rack with full range cams—especially smaller sizes—for the crack systems.

Check weather forecasts closely; wet conditions make the slab pitches slippery and unsafe.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating accurately reflects the final pitch’s technical face climbing, which involves delicate footwork and sustained finger jams. The middle pitch feels more relaxed at 5.8, serving as a connecting link that offers a brief respite. Overall, the grade feels on point with a notable crux on the last pitch requiring strength and precision—not for the faint of heart but manageable for confident 5.10 climbers familiar with West Coast granite.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack works well here, including a full range of cams to handle the slab and crack variations. Finger-sized pieces protect the thinner seams, while medium-sized cams secure wider cracks, offering reliable placements throughout the climb.

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Tags

trad
slab
crack climbing
multi-pitch
granite
exposed
classic
west coast