The East Chimney on Rixon's Pinnacle stands as a landmark in Yosemite climbing history, marked by its distinction as the Valley's first 5.10 route. Set against the rugged backdrop of Yosemite Valley's northern edge, this climb offers a compelling blend of gritty offwidth chimney climbing and classic Yosemite granite, shaped by decades of ascents and stories etched into its flared cracks. The climb demands respect—not only for its technical challenge but for the way it pulls you into a dynamic fight with the rock.

Approaching the base, the chimney system looms with a commanding presence, split by a massive flake fixture that defines three distinct route variations to test a range of climbers’ skills. The original route follows the right side of the flake, characterized by an offwidth crack infamous for retaining moisture, adding a slick dimension to the physical struggle. To the left, the Klemens Variation offers a 5.10c experience marked by flared, shallow chimney moves requiring precise hand jams and a tricky finish, while the Final Decision amps up the difficulty to a steep 5.11b flake climb rounding the corner. No matter which line you choose, the first pitch sets the tone with a demanding crux that tests commitment and technique.

Transitioning into pitch two, the route rolls past a striking overhang inside the chimney—a section that looks intimidating but ranks closer to moderate (5.8). Protection is reliable here, with large cams nestled in back cracks that provide solid security as you ascend a smooth squeeze before reaching a generous belay ledge. This pitch balances challenge with a physiological rhythm, inviting climbers to breathe, reset, and absorb the sheer verticality around them.

The third pitch unfolds into a series of quirky features: a bulbous bulge leads into a grimy slot before you navigate a bush-whacked section that intensifies the sense of wilderness intrusion onto the climb. A traverse to the right ushers you through a shadowed tunnel past a wedged block, crowned with hands-and-feet battles through trees to reach the upper chimney ledge. Rope management becomes a puzzle here because of constricted spaces that pinch the line, requiring patience and tactical slack management when belaying.

For those eager to top out on Rixon’s Pinnacle proper, a final optional pitch extends the adventure. This 5.7 corner climb threads past several trees to a summit that grants panoramic views of the valley’s soaring walls and granite domes.

Descending the East Chimney demands vigilance. The established rappel anchors are relics—ancient quarter-inch bolts that have seen better days. The recommended descent deviates to a large tree further up the corner, where two ropes can deliver climbers safely down to the next anchor and then to the base. Bringing extra webbing is essential for constructing secure anchors on uncertain hardware.

Protection throughout is traditionally centered on a wide range of cams from small gear up to 6 inches. Doubles in the mid-range (1 to 2 inches) are especially valuable for the Klemens Variation, where placements need to be precise and stable to handle the chimney's flares. This thoughtful gear selection can make the difference between a smooth ascent and a frustrating jam session.

Located deep within Yosemite National Park, this route is part of a climbing scene renowned for its fusion of wilderness and history. Rixon’s Pinnacle offers both challenge and character, providing a textured experience that blends technical crack work with a raw connection to one of the world’s most iconic climbing landscapes.

Ideal climbs here fall in late spring through early fall, when the granite surfaces dry quickly after morning sun hits. East-facing aspects catch the early light, warming the rock to comfortable temperatures before midday heats up the valley floor. Shade retreats are limited, so climbers should plan for hydration and sun protection accordingly.

To prepare for the East Chimney ascent, take stock of your offwidth technique and comfortable chimney climbing skills. This route isn’t simply about power—it rewards body positioning, patience, and efficiency in the cracks.

Ultimately, tackling the East Chimney invites climbers into a dialogue with Yosemite’s enduring granite, measured by steady gear placements, enduring history, and a rawness that only trad climbing can offer. Whether you're chasing legacy or looking for a test of offwidth mettle, this route remains a potent and rewarding challenge in the heart of the Valley.