"The Dragon's Reign challenges climbers with a striking roof lined by a dragon-shaped hold, demanding precise moves and solid crack technique on a single-pitch 5.10+ trad route at Bear Mountain. This climb balances physical intensity with a quiet wilderness setting, perfect for adventurous trad climbers."
Perched on the lower tier of Bear Mountain, The Dragon's Reign draws climbers into a bold 60-foot test of finger strength and tactical moves. This single-pitch trad route offers a sharp blend of technical climbing, featuring a gripping roof section that dares you to engage with its dragon-shaped hold—a striking feature that demands precision and respect. The route’s lip arches like a challenge carved in stone, inviting you to pull through several dynamic campus moves along this overhanging section. These moves are not just physically demanding; they require mental focus and care, as the hold at the roof’s edge is notoriously delicate, making controlled movement essential.
After negotiating the roof, the path eases into a rightward traverse, following a natural weakness that offers a welcome momentary breather. From here, a vertical crack rises, beckoning climbers upward with a classic hand crack that tests clean jamming skills. This final section requires steady footwork and confidence in gear placements.
Protection calls for a standard rack, so packing a versatile set including nuts, cams up to medium sizes, and some finger-sized gear is critical. The rock quality is sound but expect some protection spots to demand thoughtful placement, especially near the roof and along the crack where pro can be limited.
Bear Mountain reveals its rugged character here—raw faces with textured granite that feels alive under your fingertips. The climb’s location in New Brunswick offers an off-the-beaten-path adventure in Canadian climbing, far removed from crowded crags. At 45.47227 latitude and -66.50856 longitude, the area delivers a quiet wilderness backdrop, where the forest edges meet rocky cliffs that catch the afternoon sun.
Getting to the wall requires a short approach through mixed terrain, including forest paths marked with faint game trails. Time your climb for early mornings or late afternoons during spring and fall, when temperatures are cool and the rock is grippy but not slick from heavy moisture. Summer days can bake the face, making hands sweat and holds slippery.
Rappelling off the anchor is straightforward but ensure your knot and rappel setup are secure; the landing zone is moderately sloped but uneven. A careful descent avoids loose debris and keeps you safe for that walk back to base camp.
Whether you’re a seasoned trad climber seeking a compact but challenging pitch or an adventurous spirit ready to engage a unique roof feature, The Dragon’s Reign offers a memorable climb infused with both physical challenge and the quiet beauty of the Canadian wilderness. Prepare well, respect the rock’s fragile sections, and you’ll earn a strong sense of accomplishment on this distinct 5.10+ PG13 climb.
Exercise caution on the roof's dragon-shaped hold; it is delicate and can snap if leveraged improperly. Ensure protection is solid before committing to the campus moves overhead. The landing after rappel has uneven terrain—watch your footing when descending.
Approach via mixed forest terrain; follow faint trails and prepare for uneven footing.
Avoid climbing on wet or rainy days since the rock can become slippery, especially on the roof section.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs provide better temperatures and improved grip.
Secure your rappel set carefully; anchor is reliable but landing zone uneven.
Standard rack recommended, including nuts and cams sized for hand to finger cracks. Be prepared for some tight placements near the roof and along the crack above.
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