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The Crush: A Fierce Battle on Upper Dawn Wall’s Wide Crack

Welsford, Canada
wide crack
offwidth
fist jam
overhang traverse
single pitch
trad climbing
New Brunswick
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Crush
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Crush is a demanding single-pitch trad climb on Upper Dawn Wall, offering a rare wide crack challenge in New Brunswick. From a slab start to an awkward offwidth chimney, it’s a physical and technical test for climbers ready to wrestle the rock."

The Crush: A Fierce Battle on Upper Dawn Wall’s Wide Crack

The Crush demands your full attention from the moment your hands grasp the base of this wide crack, located in the rugged Upper Dawn Wall along Cochrane Lane Cliffs. This single-pitch trad route is not for the faint-hearted; it’s a raw test of strength and technique where the rock challenges you as much as you challenge it. The climb starts on a solid slab and corner, offering a deceptively calm approach before you encounter a steep overhang — a natural choke point in this vertical struggle. Here, you’ll traverse five feet left beneath the overhang, feeling the rock’s texture shift beneath your fingers. The move requires precision and careful footwork, the kind that sharpens your focus and readies your mind for what lies ahead.

Beyond the traverse, the route breaks into a demanding fist crack that narrows and steepens into an offwidth chimney. This section stands out as the heart of The Crush: muscle meets technique in an awkward dance of jams, presses, and squeezes. The chimney gently yields a horizontal break, a respite before the final wrestling match through the offwidth, testing both physical endurance and mental grit. The rock’s surface here maintains a rough, tactile grip, but the spatial challenge of the offwidth demands patience and commitment.

Protection is critical on this climb, and bringing a well-rounded rack is essential. A range of cams—from BD .75 to sizes 5 or 6—is highly recommended, with duplicates for 3 and 4 sizes to ensure safe placements in the chimneys and wider sections. The anchor atop is a sturdy tree, offering reliable security after a thoroughly engaging ascent. The climb’s 65-foot length is compact but packing intensity that will leave you feeling both worn and accomplished.

Approaching The Crush means starting from a less-trodden section of Welsford’s cliffs, where the trail offers uneven terrain, patches of mossy rock, and the subtle sounds of wilderness nearby. It’s a short yet invigorating hike that will have you focused and energized before you even reach the base. This climb is a standout among the blend of cracks and faces on Cochrane Lane, especially for those who crave the challenge of wide crack technique and the raw physical demand of offwidth climbing.

Early morning or late afternoon provides the best light and temperature, as the wall faces fluctuate between sun and shade throughout the day. Cool conditions tend to make the rock’s friction more predictable, especially in the squeezing segments where calm focus counts as much as strength. The overall setting reflects an unrefined wilderness experience, offering views across the surrounding valley that reward your efforts with spacious, quiet reflection after the struggle.

The Crush is a rare opportunity in New Brunswick for trad climbers seeking a bold, physical adventure far from crowded crags. It asks you to wrestle, balance, and persist, delivering a climb that is as much a test against yourself as it is against the rock. Prepare well, respect the route’s demands, and you’ll walk away with a hard-earned story and a full sense of accomplishment.

Climber Safety

The offwidth climbs can be jarring and tire you quickly; be mindful of protection placements as the chimney section narrows and can limit gear options. The tree anchor is reliable but double-check knots and slings before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of cooler rock and avoid afternoon heat.

Prepare for strenuous offwidth climbing by practicing fist and chimney jams.

Check all gear placements carefully in the wider crack sections.

Wear sturdy, high-friction climbing shoes for optimal grip on the slab start.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:At 5.11d, The Crush leans toward the stiff side of the spectrum, largely due to the demanding offwidth and awkward fist crack moves. While the grade reflects technical difficulty and sustained effort, the climb’s crux lies in mastering the transition under the overhang and committing to the physical upper chimney section. Among local trad routes, it ranks as a firm test for crack climbers comfortable with offwidth technique.

Gear Requirements

Bring a broad trad rack with cams ranging from BD .75 to sizes 5 or 6, including doubles in 3 and 4 for secure placements. A tree anchor tops the climb.

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Tags

wide crack
offwidth
fist jam
overhang traverse
single pitch
trad climbing
New Brunswick