"The Cat’s Tail on Mount Nemo is a concise, engaging trad climb that challenges with crack sequences and a tricky roof. Perfect for those seeking sharp technical moves within a single pitch corridor, this route rewards precise protection and steady focus."
The Cat’s Tail carves its way through a sharp chasm on Mount Nemo, offering climbers a focused yet satisfying trad experience in the heart of Ontario’s Golden Horseshoe. This compact route, stretching roughly 80 feet, threads a finger crack that demands both precision and confidence. From the moment you step into the narrowing crevice, the rock texture shifts beneath your fingers—its edges like a living puzzle daring you to find the right holds. The climb begins with a finger crack that slides into a corner, leading you upward to a more substantial hand crack, testing your crack climbing technique before the route opens into a layback section.
Beyond the layback, flakes provide natural handholds guiding you leftward beneath a roof that acts like a threshold—both a physical and mental challenge. Moving through the roof requires calculated moves and attention to body positioning. The finish lies at a bolted anchor, carefully installed to protect a stand of cedars just out of reach, reflecting the local climbers' respect for this natural environment.
Approach is brief but deliberate, placing this climb within a climbing mecca noted for its approachable yet varied trad routes. Rock quality here supports small nuts to #3 Camalots, making a full rack essential: this route 'eats' protection with its crack dimensions and changes in rock feature. There's a subtle balance between technical moves and raw crack climbing, making it an excellent choice for those honing their trad skills within a single pitch.
The great appeal of The Cat’s Tail lies not just in its technical demands but in the environment it inhabits. Mount Nemo’s rock faces lean into the mid-morning sun, while the chasm's depth provides refreshing shade in the heat. The route’s position ensures a mix of sun and shadow throughout the climb, ideal for spring through fall sessions. Although not overly long, the climb offers enough variety to keep your focus sharp and your fingers engaged.
As you plan your day, bring shoes with strong edging capability and prepare for some sustained crack work. Hydration is key, as the exposed areas atop the chasm can dry out quickly once the sun climbs higher. The approach is straightforward but keep an eye on trail markings; the chasm's tight entrance can feel deceptively hidden from casual view. After topping out, a simple down climb or short rappel returns you to the base.
While beginner-friendly at 5.9, The Cat’s Tail demands respect from any climber—its technical crack sequences and roof section deliver a punch that rewards careful movement and solid protection placement. It fits perfectly into a day of honing trad skills while soaking in Ontario’s fresh air and stunning rock formations.
The route demands careful placement of protection throughout especially around the roof section where falls could be longer if gear is sparse. The bolt anchors reduce anchor strain but ensure slings around cedar trees do not damage them. Watch footing on flakes during transitions; some loose pieces require attention.
Wear shoes with aggressive edging for secure foot placements on flakes and edges.
Approach early to avoid higher temperatures and benefit from the chasm's shade.
Carry a full trad rack focused on small to medium protection sizes.
Be cautious moving through the roof; maintain three points of contact and steady breathing.
A complete rack with small nuts through to #3 Camalots is advised. The climb features a variety of crack widths necessitating flexible gear choices. The placement can be demanding but trusting your gear is key for safe upward progress.
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