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The Burglar: Sport Climbing on Lakeside’s Bold Crack

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
right-leaning crack
sport climbing
single pitch
technical face
Murrin Park
granite
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Burglar
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Burglar carves a demanding line up a large right-leaning crack on the granite faces of Lakeside. Perfectly bolted and richly textured, this 80-foot sport climb offers accessible yet engaging moves that keep both body and mind focused."

The Burglar: Sport Climbing on Lakeside’s Bold Crack

The Burglar presents a compelling challenge for climbers visiting Squamish’s Lakeside in the Woods sector, tucked within the raw wilderness of Murrin Park. This vivid 80-foot climb offers more than just a test of technique—it invites you into an engaging dialogue with the granite, starting with a commanding right-leaning crack that slices through the rock face. From the base, the route immediately demands focus as you punch up through three well-spaced bolts, establishing rhythm and confidence before transitioning into the crack system itself. Here, the crack beckons you to explore subtle hand jams and technical smears as you follow five additional bolts that guide you diagonally upward and rightward toward the anchor chains, each move offering a satisfying blend of power and finesse. The granite walls feel alive with texture—sharp edges, slight overhangs, and clean surfaces that reward precise footwork and controlled breathing.

Lakeside’s setting enhances the climb’s appeal. The approach is straightforward, threading through towering Douglas firs and quiet stands of cedar until the rock face emerges, sunlit for much of the day. A gentle breeze often drifts through the trees, carrying the scents of pine sap and damp earth, grounding you even as you reach higher. For climbers keen on sport routes that balance sustained effort with accessible protection, The Burglar stands out as a hidden gem not yet listed in many guidebooks.

Preparation is key: wear sticky rubber shoes that can handle crack jams and slabby foot placements, bring enough quickdraws to clip all ten bolts comfortably, and time your climb to avoid the afternoon heat, as the rock can become stifling under direct sun. Hydrate well before the ascent, and pack a light jacket for the descent, especially during spring and fall when weather shifts are common. Whether you’re chasing a personal project or simply after solid mileage on reliable granite, The Burglar offers an experience that’s equal parts adventure and skill refinement.

Beyond the climb itself, the surrounding area provides excellent opportunities to unwind post-send. Murrin Park’s rugged trails and crystal-clear lake are perfect for stretching out sore muscles or soaking in a cool splash. Keep an eye out for local wildlife and the subtle chatter of creeks that press on through the forest. This route is not simply about reaching chains; it’s about fully engaging with the environment and leaving feeling tested, rewarded, and grounded.

Climber Safety

While well bolted, the crack section demands precise foot and hand placements on sharp granite edges. Pay attention to clip taps and maintain three points of contact near the crux to avoid swinging or gear tug. The approach trail is moderate but can be slippery after rain; good footwear is essential.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the established Lakeside trail for a 15-minute access through shaded forest.

Start early morning to avoid the afternoon sun heating the granite surface.

Sticky shoes with good edging capability will help on the crack and face transitions.

Bring water and a windbreaker for the descent; the trail can feel cooler in the evening.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c/d, The Burglar strikes a balance between sustained sport climbing and technical crack work. The grade feels spot-on with a notable crux as you shift from bolted face moves into the crack system. It’s slightly stiffer than other Lakeside routes but well within reach for intermediate climbers looking to push their technique.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 10 bolts, set along the main crack and face, allowing a confident push through technical seam and face climbing sections. Bring a standard sport rack with at least 10 quickdraws for smooth clipping and safe clipping zones.

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Tags

right-leaning crack
sport climbing
single pitch
technical face
Murrin Park
granite