Sport
Victoria, Canada
"The Bat condenses sport climbing into one sharp, challenging move at 5.10c on Vancouver Island's Dirt Stamp Wall. Perfect for climbers looking for a precise, technical blast packed into just 50 feet."
The Bat, also known as One Move Wonder, offers a brief but intense climbing experience that tests your precision and poise on Vancouver Island’s Dirt Stamp Wall. This single-pitch sport route stretches 50 feet up a clean face, demanding a focused effort on a single, demanding move rated at 5.10c. Unlike sprawling climbs with gradual buildup, The Bat zeroes in on that one moment where grace and strength must meet perfectly, making it a must-try for climbers who appreciate technical intensity packed into a concise line.
Located at Glen Lake Crag near Victoria, the approach to Dirt Stamp Wall delivers an easy and straightforward access, allowing you to save energy for the climb itself. The trail cuts through a light forest that reacts to your presence—branches whisper and small birds flit overhead, punctuating the quiet mountain air. The wall faces southeast, catching the morning sun and cooling off by afternoon, making early starts ideal for avoiding warm rock and sweating grips.
The rock here is solid, primarily granite, with a smooth texture that rewards careful footwork and precise hand placements. The 2016 retro-bolting by S. Morphy transformed this route from a faint, barely protected challenge with just one bolt into a safer, accessible climb while still preserving its original spirit. Five bolts and a fixed anchor ensure security but require confidence in clipping efficiency and rope management.
For climbers honing their sport technique, The Bat is a perfect testbed. The crux move demands body tension and a small but powerful reach that isn’t easy to read on first glance. The route’s brevity doesn’t remove the need for focus—one small slip wastes your momentum and forces a quick retreat. This climb encourages you to scout your sequences carefully on approach, warming up adequately before committing to the move.
Gear-wise, you’ll rely fully on the fixed hardware, so quickdraws are essential. Ensure your draws can reach smoothly without awkward gate alignment, as the move’s difficulty and required fluid motion leave no margin for fumbling. A harness-friendly belay setup is recommended for managing the rope at the anchor and keeping communication clear with your climbing partner.
Outside the technical demand, the surroundings invite a quiet appreciation of Glen Lake’s natural charm. The forested setting holds a gentle coolness while dappled sunlight creates shifting patterns on the rock. The proximity to Victoria means you’re never far from urban amenities, yet here you get a taste of wilderness where the rock becomes your sole focus.
Timing your climb for early morning not only avoids overheating but also rewards you with softer shadows that accentuate the rock’s features, helping you read holds and edges more clearly. The Bat is not for the faint-hearted, but it’s a rewarding line for anyone looking to fine-tune their sport climbing skills against a backdrop of approachable wilderness and solid rock.
Whether you come for a quick session between longer climbs or as a targeted challenge, The Bat’s concise but sharp profile makes it an essential stop for climbers visiting Vancouver Island and craving a moment of concentrated difficulty. This route’s one bold move invites you to embrace precision, commitment, and the satisfying click of a well-placed clip on your way to the anchor.
Be mindful that the climb relies on fixed bolts—check all hardware beforehand. The short length leaves little margin for error on the crux move, so ensure solid foot placement and warm muscles before committing.
Start climbs early morning to avoid warm sun on the southeast-facing wall.
Approach trail is straightforward, but wear sturdy shoes for minor roots and rocks.
Bring at least five quickdraws for smooth clipping and safety.
Warm up on easier routes nearby before tackling The Bat’s single crux move.
Five fixed bolts and a top anchor provide secure protection. Quickdraws with smooth gates and a strong rope management system are recommended for clipping efficiency during the crux move.
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