"Terete Arête stands as a sharp, slender trad climb on the Redwood Coast with a compelling blend of smooth holds and sparse protection. Its unique form and coastal setting make it a captivating choice for climbers ready to engage carefully with exposed gear and an adventurous line."
Carved into the rugged coastal landscape of Northern California, Terete Arête offers a concise yet compelling climbing experience on the Redwood Coast, just a short approach from Patrick's Point State Park. This single-pitch trad climb follows a slender, cylindrical arête that rises sharply to about 80 feet, demanding focused footwork and steady hands. Its name—borrowed from a botanical term describing a shape that is round and tapering without ridges—fits the rock’s smooth, clean profile perfectly.
Starting at the base, climbers face a choice: ascend the direct arête with opposing holds and a challenging 10b start, or begin with a short 3rd to 4th class gulley to the right, easing into the 5.8- section where the climbing feels more moderate. Both options test balance and precision, with positive holds scattered throughout, though the rock's varied grip encourages vigilance. Loose holds can appear, a legacy of the wild environment, so steady judgment is required.
Protection here leans towards the adventurous. The lower half offers fair opportunities for small cams—two offset sizes cover most needs—while the upper section pushes climbers to place smaller nuts and cams in less secure spots. The gear is thin near the top, with limited placements that are not trustworthy in a fall, urging climbers to avoid heavy falls and keep their focus razor sharp. Belaying from the ground rather than the ledge above provides safer rope management and less shock on the gear, reducing risk during the crux portions.
The approach is straightforward, involving a short trek from the designated parking at Patrick’s Point. The route’s exposure to the coastal elements adds a cooler, often breezy climate, lending relief during warm summer climbs. The combination of forested surroundings and open ocean views from the top creates a satisfying payoff for the effort spent navigating the crackless, smooth arête.
Though compact, Terete Arête delivers a genuine Pacific Northwest climbing experience with its coastal character and old-school challenge. This route rewards climbers who appreciate subtle features and are prepared for a little wildness in gear and route-finding. Whether you’re testing your skills on small gear or seeking a local gem off the beaten path, Terete invites a climb that’s as much about careful reading of the rock as it is about strength.
For those planning a trip, bring a rack stocked with small offset cams, nuts, and TCUs down to #00 and #0 size for the direct start. Footwear with good edging ability is critical for toeing the narrow holds. Morning starts or late afternoons are best for cooler conditions. After the climb, take time to explore the nearby coastline for a full day of rugged outdoor adventure.
Loose holds can appear, especially near the top, and protection is thin in the upper section. Falling here risks serious consequences, so ensure solid gear placements and maintain cautious movement. Avoid belaying from the ledge above due to potential rope drag and force on questionable gear.
Approach from Patrick’s Point parking with a 10-minute walk to base.
Belay from the ground to reduce rope drag and gear stress.
Start early to beat coastal fog and take advantage of cooler temperatures.
Use edging shoes to maximize grip on slim holds along the arete.
Bring small offset cams for the lower half and a selection of small nuts and cams for the upper section. The direct arete start calls for #00 and #0 TCU or equivalents. Expect limited, creative gear placements near the top and avoid high falls.
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