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Telefunken U-47: A Classic Mixed Trad Climb at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Welsford, Canada
slab
roof crux
single pitch
mixed climbing
overhang
small runouts
trad protection
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Telefunken U-47
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Telefunken U-47 challenges climbers with its blend of technical slabs and roof moves at Cochrane Lane Cliffs. This single-pitch trad route offers a rewarding mix of crimps, runouts, and classic overhangs, making it a standout climb in New Brunswick’s portfolio."

Telefunken U-47: A Classic Mixed Trad Climb at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

At Cochrane Lane Cliffs, just outside Welsford in New Brunswick, Telefunken U-47 offers an engaging trad experience that blends technical slab climbing with powerful roof moves. This single-pitch, 100-foot route invites climbers to navigate a striking mix of slabs and roofs, testing both finesse and strength. From the base, the rock feels alive under your fingers—the smooth slabs demanding precise footwork, while the roofs challenge your commitment with their bold overhangs.

The climb unfolds with a steady rhythm; early moves ease you into the rock’s texture as you ascend the lower slabs. Approaching the 4th bolt, you encounter a tricky crux requiring a well-timed pull over the roof, a sequence that separates pilots from followers. After clipping one last bolt, the wall stretches upward in an inviting line marked by pockets and edges, offering an immersive connection with the rock’s subtle features. Small runouts here reward confident route reading and mental composure.

Near the top, a final overhang demands a last burst of power before a short slab section leads you to the bolted anchor where rappelling gear awaits. This route stands out within New Brunswick’s climbing scene as one of the province’s top mixed climbs, valued not only for its challenge but for the seamless combination of movement styles.

Gear selection matters here: a single rack up to 1 inch plus a handful of quickdraws for the bolts keeps your rack efficient. Five bolts protect the key sections, so strong trad skills and careful placement are essential. The rock can test your patience, but the route’s flow and variety reward effort with deeply satisfying movement.

Cochrane Lane Cliffs sit in a rugged, accessible spot, offering solid rock and scenic views that sharpen the senses. Whether it’s your first trad climb or a step up in technical slab, Telefunken U-47 presents a balanced challenge that pushes technique and confidence while delivering pure climbing enjoyment. Plan your trip to hit the cliff in the morning to avoid shade lingering on the face, and bring sturdy shoes for slab friction and a light rack to stay agile. Hydrate well and leave ample time to soak in the quiet outdoors after your send.

Climber Safety

Watch for the runouts on the upper slabs; a fall here could lead to swinging risks. The roof crux demands solid technique and secure clipping to avoid straining falls. Always inspect fixed bolts as some gained exposure from weathering.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid shade affecting slab friction.

Use sticky climbing shoes to maintain grip on polished slabs.

Double-check bolt integrity before trusting the clips.

Carry light gear to stay balanced on delicate moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c PG13 rating accurately reflects the route's demanding roof crux combined with runouts that force precise route reading and mental focus. While the grade feels true to form, the crux around the 4th bolt adds an extra punch of difficulty uncommon in nearby climbs, making it a memorable challenge for local climbers.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts protect key sections; bring a single rack sized up to 1 inch to handle tricky placements. Rap rings at the anchor simplify descent.

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Tags

slab
roof crux
single pitch
mixed climbing
overhang
small runouts
trad protection