"Taken for Granite offers a crisp, engaging crack climb along the left-arching split of Rattlesnake Buttress. This single-pitch trad route challenges climbers with a boulder problem start and a steady hand and finger jam finish, framed by Joshua Tree’s sculpted desert landscape."
Taken for Granite commands attention at Rattlesnake Buttress, drawing climbers into a precise dance of hand jams and finger locks along a left-curving crack that stirs with quiet challenge. This single-pitch traditional climb stretches 120 feet across textured granite, where the rock’s unyielding grip invites steady focus from the first move. Approaching the climb, you’ll feel the cool desert air carry whispers of Joshua Tree’s rugged spirit, while the crack itself cuts a clear path up the face, rising steadily with a confident arc.
The ascent begins with a technical 5.8 boulder problem beneath a small roof, demanding both technique and composure before you enter the wider slot above. This section provides a test of body positioning, as narrow finger jams line the right side, linking into a broad, hand-friendly crack that lulls you into a steady rhythm. Round the large block at 30 feet, the crack opens further into a beautiful hand and finger crack system, offering secure placements and a satisfying mental flow.
Protection calls for gear ranging from thin pieces to 2.5 inches, rewarding climbers who carry a well-rounded rack to confidently manage the crack’s varied widths. The granite’s texture is rough enough to inspire confidence yet expects diligence in placement, making careful gear selection crucial. After topping out, two rappels from slings on sturdy anchors or an easy fifth-class scramble back down a gully behind the formation provide a smooth exit from the wall.
Rattlesnake Buttress itself belongs to the stark and iconic landscape of Joshua Tree National Park, where desert winds and vast open skies frame every climb. The access approach is straightforward, hiking in through Joshua Tree’s rugged trails, offering a chance to welcome the desert’s broad expanse and quiet focus before committing to the climb. Early morning climbs are recommended to avoid midday heat, as sun exposure increases the challenge of both the approach and the rock’s surface.
For those targeting a solid introduction to hand and finger crack techniques in a storied desert setting, Taken for Granite balances accessible climbing with enough technical wrinkle to engage intermediate climbers. This climb invites attention through its clear line and classic granite features, providing a rewarding day out in one of Southern California’s climbing gems.
Watch for loose flakes near the base and carefully check all gear placements on the roof section. Desert heat can quickly dehydrate climbers; plan hydration accordingly. The rappel anchors are solid but always verify sling integrity before descending.
Start early to beat the desert heat and enjoy cooler granite surfaces.
Bring gloves or tape to protect skin during sustained finger jams.
Inspect slings on rappel anchors for safety before descent.
Pack plenty of water; the trail and climb offer no shade.
Carry a standard trad rack sized from thin wires and cams up to 2.5 inches. Precise gear placement is key, especially under the initial roof and within the wider crack sections.
Upload your photos of Taken for Granite and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.