Trad
McQuirks Mountain, Canada
"Take Me To Your Leader is an accessible 100-foot trad climb on McQuirks Mountain’s Main Wall. With a welcoming crack system and straightforward protection, it offers an ideal introduction to trad climbing set against New Brunswick’s wild landscapes."
Take Me To Your Leader opens with an inviting crack system, setting the tone for a straightforward yet rewarding climb on McQuirks Mountain’s Main Wall. This single-pitch trad route stretches roughly 100 feet along a rugged slab of granite that holds a distinct presence against the surrounding woodland. The climb begins at the left edge of a natural ledge, perched just above a two-bolt rappel station, making both the start and finish well-defined landmarks. As you ascend, the crack widens gently, offering comfortable hand and finger jams that make protection straightforward and placements secure up to three inches in size.
Underfoot, the rock feels textured and grippy, with subtle edges encouraging precise footwork over what is mostly an easy 5.6 grade. The crack invites movement that is balanced rather than strenuous, appealing to climbers looking to build confidence on solid, natural features without too much fuss. Above, the bolted anchors provide a reliable and sheltered belay station, a welcome respite where you can take in expanses of New Brunswick’s dense forests and nearby ridges set in the crisp Canadian air.
Approaching the route involves a short hike across mixed terrain that shifts from thick pines to sun-warmed rocky outcrops. The access trail is well-marked but demands steady footing along some loose gravel patches; anticipate about 15-20 minutes from the main parking area. Early morning ascents provide the best conditions, as the wall faces east and catches the gentle warmth of the sun while staying clear of harsh midday heat — perfect for those looking to avoid sweaty grips on polished rock.
While the route doesn’t challenge with sustained difficulty, it offers climbers an immersive experience that balances simplicity with satisfying movement. Pack a standard rack up to three inches and be prepared for moderate protection placements along straightforward cracks. The area around McQuirks Mountain is quiet and remote, set within a rugged wilderness zone that rewards respect and awareness — watch for occasional wildlife and unstable ledges near the start.
Descent is accomplished via a two-bolt rappel directly from the anchors, making for a clean and safe retreat. Remember to double-check your rappel setup and rope management in this sometimes windy corridor. Whether you’re sharpening your trad skills or looking for a scenic climb to complement a summer hike, Take Me To Your Leader stands ready to deliver a clear, enjoyable climb framed by the vast beauty of New Brunswick’s backcountry.
Prepare to engage with the rock and your surroundings with focused attention and an adventurous spirit. The route’s approachable nature invites climbers of varied experience levels, while the quiet majesty of the Main Wall firmly roots this climb in Canada’s growing climbing scene.
Keep an eye on the ledge’s edges near the start, as some sections have loose rock. Always double-check your belay setup and rappel gear when descending, especially in windy conditions that can sway ropes against the rock face.
Approach trail takes about 15-20 minutes from the parking area; watch for loose gravel.
Morning climbs are best to avoid midday heat on the east-facing wall.
Check anchor and rappel gear thoroughly—wind can catch ropes during descent.
Secure your placements carefully in the crack, though protection is generally straightforward.
A single rack up to three inches suffices for this route. Bolted anchors top out the climb, providing dependable rappel points.
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