HomeClimbingTachypsychia

Tachypsychia: A Moderate 7-Pitch Trad Experience on Psyche Slab

Powell River, Canada
trad
multi-pitch
moderate
slab
crack climbing
shaded ledges
British Columbia
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
Tachypsychia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tachypsychia offers a solid 7-pitch trad climb on Psyche Slab, ideal for climbers seeking a true 5.6 moderate challenge. Its well-protected cracks and shaded ledges make it a refreshing choice for a day in Eldred Valley’s rugged wilderness."

Tachypsychia: A Moderate 7-Pitch Trad Experience on Psyche Slab

Tachypsychia stands out on Psyche Slab as a genuine moderate trad climb, offering a straightforward yet engaging 7-pitch route that truly caters to climbers comfortable in the 5.6 range. This line stretches 800 feet up steep rock, carving through a sequence of broken cracks, corners, and slabs—a physical test that balances ease with enough variety to keep you alert. From the very first pitch, the climb invites you into a rhythm where time itself seems to shift, echoing the Greek origin of the name: a distortion of time perception. Here, each move counts, but the effort is measured and deliberate, suited for those who value steady progression and solid gear placements.

Starting in a shallow left-facing corner, the initial pitch feels like stepping into an outdoor puzzle where cracks and ledges mark your path upward. The rock often drinks your touch, the weathered sandstone dry yet receptive, and after rainfall, you might catch a whisper of water where the wall channels moisture. As you gain height, the surrounding forested valley expands, peppering the horizon with the green of Eldred Valley and the distant calm of Powell River. The shaded nature of parts of this climb provides welcome relief during warmer afternoons, making it one of the few routes here to offer a midday snack spot under sheltering rock and branches.

Pitch two requires careful footwork on slabby faces, past a trio of bolts that punctuate the climb’s mid-section, before settling into another shallow corner. These transitions test your ability to manage rope drag especially if you take advantage of the option to link pitches; a 70-meter rope is a definite advantage to streamline the ascent and reduce excess slack. Further up, the crack systems guide you reliably along the rock, with occasional boosts provided by overlapping bulges or tree growth, each acting as landmarks and natural rests.

The gear here is forgiving, with placements in cracks ranging from micro cams to larger pro sections stretching up to four inches. The need for doubles on some sizes ensures flexibility, especially across pitches where the rock offers multiple choices for anchors and pro. This versatility boosts confidence for climbers newer to multi-pitch trad routes, as protection feels secure and often intuitive.

The summit pitches maintain a steady 5.6 challenge, with opportunities for technical movement across slab and crack sequences named ‘Roy Time 1’ and ‘Roy Time 2.’ These pitches demand streamlined technique, composure, and efficient gear placement to push through exposed terrain that rewards cautious optimism. The end greets you with a treed ledge, a calm pocket that invites you to breathe in the quiet power of this British Columbian wilderness.

Descending is straightforward but demands attention—two 60-meter ropes will get you down safely via rappel, following the climb’s path in reverse. Experienced parties can skip the gear belay rappel and link a longer rope directly from higher stances, a time saver after exertion fresh on the arms and legs. The walk back to base is gentle, though sandals come highly recommended for the slick slab in sections where water lingers.

Overall, Tachypsychia embodies accessible adventure, balancing scenic views, moderate difficulty, and rock quality that respects the new and intermediate trad climber alike. It’s a route that challenges perception as much as muscle, rewarding patience and steady skill with vast vistas and the quiet thrill of ascending Psyche Slab.

Climber Safety

Watch for wet, slippery conditions on the slab sections after rain, both on the approach and when rappelling. Protection placements can be good but require attention near roofed overlaps and tree-covered sections. Always double-check anchor security and avoid loose rock in less traveled corners.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches7
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Bring a 70m rope to link pitches 2-3 and 6-7 for a smoother ascent.

Plan your climb midday or afternoon to enjoy shaded ledges for breaks.

Sandals are helpful for the slick rappel slabs, especially if water lingers.

Double-check your protection placements around cracks near overlaps—they can be tricky but secure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 grade on Tachypsychia feels fair and consistent throughout the ascent, with no unexpected crux sections. Some pitches feature comfortable protection and moderate moves, making it a solid introduction to multi-pitch trad at this grade. The rating is true to form, especially compared to other climbs in the Eldred Valley, though the rope management and linking of pitches add subtle technical complexity.

Gear Requirements

Suggested rack includes doubles to 2 inches, singles or doubles of 3 and 4 inches, with 2 x 60m ropes for rappelling. A 70m rope is recommended to link pitches and minimize rope drag.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Tachypsychia and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
multi-pitch
moderate
slab
crack climbing
shaded ledges
British Columbia