HomeClimbingTachycardia

Tachycardia: A Bold Trad Climb on Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula

St. John's, Canada
thin seam
roof traverse
ballnuts
trad gear
single pitch
slab climbing
coastal climb
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Tachycardia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tachycardia offers a pure trad climbing experience with technical moves on thin seams and exposed traverses beneath rugged roofs. This 60-foot route on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula challenges climbers with gear-dependent sections and rewarding summit views."

Tachycardia: A Bold Trad Climb on Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula

Tachycardia unfolds as a striking trad climb set on Flatrock’s Spanky's Playground, a rugged outcrop on Newfoundland’s remote Avalon Peninsula. The route demands your full attention from the moment you step onto the rock, beginning with a thin seam protected by RP’s that leads upward to the lip of the first roof after about 20 feet. This initial pitch will test your precision and patience, as the move requires both steady balance and commitment to small holds that don’t give ground easily. Beyond this challenge, you climb a tight corner that rises directly above the roof, compelling you into a compact, technical groove where every hand and foot placement counts.

The climb doesn’t offer relief as you maneuver beneath a second roof. Here, you switch tactics to traverse cleverly along a slab on the right side, an exposed section that demands confidence on friction and careful route reading. These moves connect you to the final segment where the route tops out, delivering a satisfying sense of achievement after sustained effort along this single pitch.

With a length of approximately 60 feet, Tachycardia feels compact but packed with complexity. The rock’s texture gives just enough friction to challenge your footwork without punishing slips, while the route’s positioning lets you enjoy crisp Atlantic air and panoramic views of the rugged coastline below. The climb’s PG13 rating hints at some runout sections where precise gear placement is essential, calling for a mix of RP’s, Ballnuts, and a standard rack up to 2-inch cams. Preparations should also include a crash pad, used on the ascent by the assumed first ascensionist to guard against slips or falls during trickier moves.

Spanky's Playground itself feels raw and elemental, offered to climbers who seek routes away from busy crags. While the approach to the wall is rugged, it rewards with isolated beauty and raw exposure, perfect for climbers ready to engage fully with the rock and environment. Expect calm weather windows to maximize grip and safety, as moisture can quickly shift the slab’s friction dynamics. The best season to attempt Tachycardia is late spring through early fall, when the Atlantic breeze is moderate and daylight hours are generous, allowing for relaxed pacing.

Approach details reveal a straightforward walk-in from Flatrock’s access points, although the terrain can be uneven with patches of loose gravel requiring firm, supportive footwear. Once on the route, a careful anchor setup replicates the belay for the nearby "Retreat" climb, easing gear management for those familiar with the playground’s layout. A quiet descent involves downclimbing standard recesses near the belay or a short rap, but climbers should be cautious to avoid dislodging rock or debris on the way.

This route is recommended for trad climbers with experience placing passive protection in less-than-obvious placements and a solid confidence on multi-faceted moves. Its sincere challenge pairs well with a spirit of adventure, demanding respect and rewarding clutch movements with unmatched views and a profound sense of accomplishment. Whether visiting from outside Newfoundland or exploring local highpoints, Tachycardia presents a potent introduction to the wild, windswept granite corners of Canada’s eastern edge.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for spotty protection on the thin seam to avoid dangerous runouts. The slab traverse under the second roof requires secure footing on sometimes slick rock, so approach with caution. Also, be mindful of loose gravel on the approach and descent paths, especially in wet conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Use sticky climbing shoes to master the slab traverse under the second roof.

Double-check placements for RP’s as they protect the thin seam crucial to the start.

Plan your climb during dry, calm weather to maintain slab friction and prevent slips.

Wear layered clothing; coastal winds on the Avalon Peninsula can shift quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d PG13 rating feels fair but demanding, carrying a sustained sequence of moves that don’t really let up until topping out. The protection can feel sparse in spots, especially along the initial seam, bumping the overall mental effort. Climbers familiar with similar East Coast trad routes will recognize the blend of delicate crack climbing and slab maneuvering reminiscent of nearby challenges, but Tachycardia stands out for its exposure and roof negotiation.

Gear Requirements

Bring RP’s and Ballnuts for protecting thin seams, supplemented by a standard trad rack up to 2-inch cams. A crash pad is recommended to guard tricky moves, particularly around the initial roof section. The anchor gear matches the belay used for the nearby 'Retreat' route.

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Tags

thin seam
roof traverse
ballnuts
trad gear
single pitch
slab climbing
coastal climb