"Tâche Blanche challenges climbers with three technical, slab-based pitches that reward precision over power. Set within Canada’s Parc National des Grands-Jardins, this route offers a purposeful blend of intricate moves and thoughtful protection on granite’s polished surface."
Tâche Blanche in Parc National des Grands-Jardins offers a compelling journey through three demanding pitches of slab climbing that challenge both your technique and composure. Situated in the wild, forest-lined reaches near Quebec City, this route unspools across 460 feet of polished granite, where thin ramps and horizontal cracks beckon climbers to engage with the rock intimately. The first pitch immediately tests your balance as you work up a narrow ramp, placing gear carefully before following a line punctuated with pitons and bolts. The climbing requires steady footwork and precise movements, especially as the slab’s subtle contours demand full attention. Moving upward, the second pitch invites you to navigate a leftward traverse along a bolted ramp until you reach a horizontal crack—a rewarding feature that offers both protection options and a brief respite to collect your thoughts before moving on. The final pitch challenges you again with a rightward traverse, where clipping two bolts sets you up for a direct ascent past a prominent horizontal break and several textured holds that make the route feel dynamic despite its slab nature. Descending involves three rappels straight down the face, which calls for solid rope management and attention to anchors.
This climb thrives on its commitment to technical precision rather than brute force. The granite's smoothness demands deliberate placements from camalots up to size #2 and a range of nuts; while fixed gear like bolts and pitons provide a reassuring framework, the route’s protection requires a confident rack and a smart approach to gear placement. The northern aspect of the wall means mornings bring cool shade, with the sun creeping in by midday, making late spring through early fall the optimal window to avoid ice or damp rock. The broader area, tucked within a national park known for its striking wilderness and rugged terrain, enhances the experience — the surrounding forest hums quietly as wind bends the branches, and distant birds punctuate the silence with sharp calls, creating an environment that feels alive and alert.
To prepare, focus on light, responsive footwear to handle the delicate balance on slabs, and bring plenty of water to stay hydrated, particularly when the sun warms exposed sections. The approach involves a steady hike through forest trails that demand good shoes and some attention to footing, about 20-30 minutes from the parking zone. For safety, be mindful that the slab can become slick during wet conditions, and the rappels require precision to avoid swing falls in the narrow corridors.
Tâche Blanche doesn’t just test climbing skill—it invites you to engage with the rock’s subtle dialogue, to read its nuances while relying on practiced protection choices. This is a climb for trad enthusiasts who appreciate the interplay of movement and mental focus, set within a tranquil but demanding natural arena in Quebec’s great outdoors.
Be cautious on the slab sections during or after wet weather, as conditions can turn slippery quickly. The rappels are straightforward but require double ropes and clear communication to avoid pendulums or rope drag around corners.
Start early to enjoy cool morning shade and avoid midday heat.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes with a sensitive edge for the thin slab moves.
Check rock conditions post-rain; the slab can be dangerously slick when wet.
Bring a double rope system for the three-step rappel descent.
A rack featuring cams up to #2 Camalot paired with a set of nuts will keep you well protected. The climb’s fixed pitons, bolts, and anchors supplement your placements along the route.
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