"Sweet Hole delivers a focused 26-foot test of balance and strength on Grey Mountain’s crisp rock. This 5.10d sport climb challenges you to master delicate footwork before executing a committed finger jam into the route’s defining pocket."
Sweet Hole is a punchy, single-pitch sport climb that delivers a compact burst of challenge against the rugged backdrop of Grey Mountain in the Yukon Territory. As you approach this route, you step into a landscape marked by sharp rock faces and open northern air, where every foothold demands focus and every move tests your grip. From the first move, the left-side pull invites you into a task of balance and persistence—foot placements can be scarce, so trust your touch and lean into the wall. The climb earns its name when you reach a small, deep pocket, a genuine ‘sweet hole’ that calls for precise finger jams and firm commitment.
Seizing that pocket is both a feat of technique and will; it's where the route transforms from a physical puzzle into a moment of pure climbing engagement. From there, a powerful undercling pulls you upward, demanding strength before easing into a series of holds along an arete. This section gives brief relief, but don’t be fooled—pump can settle into your forearms, threatening to stall your momentum just shy of the anchors. Despite the 26-foot length feeling short, the concentrated difficulty of 5.10d packs enough intensity to keep your mind locked in.
Protection is straightforward with five bolts and solid top anchors, making it a reliable choice for sport climbers looking for a swift but satisfying push. The rock’s texture offers enough friction for confident movement, but keep your hands dry and your feet precise, as the route won’t tolerate sloppy footwork. Grey Mountain’s remote northern setting means you’ll likely enjoy quiet solitude, the cool climate lending a refreshing edge to your climb amidst spruce and lichen-covered ground.
Plan your trip to avoid the brief summer when weather shifts can turn rock damp and slippery. Morning light hits the face well, giving you ample sun without overheating—a comforting balance in this northern wilderness. Packing taping gloves for finger protection and calming pre-climb stretches will aid in managing pump while hunting those elusive footholds. The approach is manageable but expect some scrambling through uneven terrain to reach the base, so sturdy shoes and steady footing are key.
Sweet Hole offers a taste of Yukon’s climbing—short but sharp, technically demanding while inviting, and set in an environment that rewards attention with pure northern wilderness vibes. It challenges you to lock in mentally and physically, promising a quick, rewarding climb that leaves space to savor the surrounding stillness once you’ve clipped the anchors.
The route’s foot placements can be sparse and slippery if damp, so ensure the rock is dry before climbing. The remote location also means you should check weather conditions before setting out and carry appropriate communication devices.
Start early to catch the face in morning sun for better grip and comfortable temperatures.
Bring climbing tape to protect fingers for the tight pocket section.
Wear shoes with precise edging to make the most of minimal footholds.
Approach carefully over uneven terrain; sturdy footwear is essential.
Five bolts and top anchors secure the route, keeping protection straightforward. Make sure your quickdraws are ready for fast clipping up the short but demanding pitch.
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