"Sweaty Betty offers a compact but demanding 60-foot sport climb with a challenging start that tests reach and technique. Perfect for climbers eager to hone their skills on solid granite cliffs just outside Denver."
Sweaty Betty offers a compact yet sharply demanding challenge tucked into the rugged cliffs of Castlewood Canyon State Park in Colorado. Though only 60 feet tall, this single pitch climb packs an intense introduction that tests strength and technique right from the first moves. The route kicks off with a notably stiff sequence that tends to stretch shorter climbers to their limits, demanding precise footwork and a confident reach for the initial pocket hold. From there, the rock opens up into generous handholds, inviting you to flow upward with a steady rhythm and build momentum toward the anchors. The quality of the granite is solid and the line, protected by six to seven sport bolts, ensures a sense of security as you push through the crux. A curious quirk awaits near the top: the hanger on the last bolt is missing, which means clipping requires extra care or a quick adjustment to use the adjacent bolt on the neighboring route, Dystocia.
Castlewood Canyon itself thrives with rugged charm, boasting sun-dappled walls that glow warmly in the afternoon light. The rock surfaces have a tactile roughness under fingertip pressure, while the air carries the faint scent of pine and dry stone. From the belay ledge, the sweeping landscape of Denver South’s foothills unfolds—offering a grounding perspective before you descend. Though the climb is brief in duration, it delivers a powerful taste of the mechanics and mental focus that define sport climbing in this area.
Approaching Sweaty Betty is straightforward: a short hike from the parking area leads you over well-established trails lined with hardy grasses and scrub oaks, guiding you to the base of the vertical face. This accessibility makes the route a prime choice for climbers looking to sharpen their sport skills or warm up for lengthier routes nearby. To optimize your experience, consider climbing in the cooler morning hours when the wall is mostly shaded, as the afternoon sun can heat the rock and increase grip difficulty.
Gear up with a standard sport rack, focusing on quickdraws compatible with 10-12 mm bolts, since the route’s protection consists mainly of fixed bolts spaced to encourage bold but controlled climbing. Footwear with a moderate stiff sole will provide the balance of edging support and flexibility needed to maneuver the technical start. Hydration and sun protection remain essentials given the exposed terrain and Colorado’s dry climate.
In summary, Sweaty Betty is a no-frills, straightforward offering for climbers eager to test their power and precision on accessible sport rock with character. It’s an efficient route that delivers solid climbing packed into a small space, framed by the natural beauty and invigorating atmosphere of Castlewood Canyon State Park.
Be cautious clipping the final bolt as the hanger is missing—this can lead to awkward or risky clipping maneuvers. The rock is generally solid, but always test holds on the approach and at the crux to avoid surprises.
The initial moves are tight for shorter climbers—focus on precise foot placements to conserve energy.
Aim to climb in the morning when the wall is mostly shaded and cooler.
Bring quickdraws suited for Sport routes with 10-12 mm bolts; mid-length draws help reduce rope drag.
Stay vigilant near the top where the last bolt lacks a hanger—clip cautiously or clip the neighboring bolt.
The climb is protected by six to seven bolts spaced for confident sport clipping, though the last bolt’s hanger is missing and requires careful clipping or using the adjacent bolt on Dystocia.
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