HomeClimbingSunset Strip

Sunset Strip: A Direct Assault on the Chief’s Western Dihedrals

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
chimney
multi-pitch
trad
well-protected
exposed
solid granite
North Shore
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
12
Location
Sunset Strip
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sunset Strip carves a compelling, sustained path across the Western Dihedrals of The Chief, blending sharp finger cracks and technical chimneys over 12 pitches. This route balances directness with well-protected climbing, offering a serious challenge for trad climbers seeking a dynamic multi-pitch experience in the heart of Squamish."

Sunset Strip: A Direct Assault on the Chief’s Western Dihedrals

Rising sharply from the rugged coastlands, the Western Dihedrals of The Chief in Squamish, British Columbia, offer climbers a bold test where endurance meets precision. Among these towering granite faces, Sunset Strip stakes its claim as a compelling 12-pitch trad route that threads together the sharpest corners, flares, and cracks across a largely new line. The climb challenges you not just with technical moves graded mostly around 5.10, but with sustained sequences that demand attention pitch after pitch, making it a true commitment for serious climbers ready to engage the rock fully.

Starting from the base, the trail leads you to an imposing boulder that sets the tone for this route: a delicate slab move that demands balance and determination. Early difficulties on this pitch push your finger crack skills as you navigate right-leaning thin fissures before escaping left onto a wide, solid ledge system. Each subsequent pitch offers a new chapter—laybacking wide corners, stepping confidently through chimneys, and threading powerful finger cracks that weave through attractive left-facing corners. Along the way, elements of neighboring routes like Sticky Fingers, Millennium Falcon, Crap Crags, and The Gauntlet surface, but about seventy percent of the climb is fresh terrain, crafted into a direct, logical line that ascends cleanly and efficiently.

Protection is thoughtfully placed and varied: a mix of bolts, cams, and nuts offers security even through the most demanding sequences. The fixed belay anchors and rappel stations simplify rope work, though the upper pitches introduce some route-finding puzzles especially when descending toward The Gauntlet. Being a part of The Western Dihedrals means you need to remain mindful of local peregrine falcon closures, usually enforced annually, that protect these birds during nesting season.

Weather can shape your day dramatically—the mostly west-facing approach sees afternoon sun shading large sections by late day, while spring and early summer provide the most stable conditions. For climbers aiming to minimize gear weight, the climb’s design encourages linking pitches, with many teams completing the route in nine or ten stretches, balancing rope drag with managing rack size. Nevertheless, expect to carry a standard trad rack up to .75 cam size and a solid selection of nuts.

Beyond the technical details, Sunset Strip unfolds as an experience firmly connected to the sheer vastness of coastal granite walls. You’ll hear the faint calls of peregrine falcons overhead and feel the crisp air that sweeps through the dihedrals, pushing you onward. The sustained effort rewards with sweeping views over Howe Sound and the nearby forests that cling to the slopes below, grounding you in the wild environment even as you make measured moves upward.

Planning for this route calls for an early start, hydration, and footwear capable of precise edging on granite slabs and flakes. With its proximity to Squamish’s vibrant climbing community, Sunset Strip offers a route that balances challenge and exposure, inviting climbers to step out of the well-tread paths and claim a line that feels both fresh and grounded in the region’s climbing heritage. Whether you're sharpening your trad skills or chasing an inspiring, multi-pitch objective, the Sunset Strip stands ready—its cracks beckoning, its ledges waiting, and its granite steadily demanding your full focus.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of route-finding on the rappel from pitch 3, which requires careful navigation to avoid getting off-route on The Gauntlet. Also, seasonal peregrine falcon closures may restrict access to parts of the route—check current local regulations to avoid disturbing sensitive wildlife.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches12
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon shade on key pitches.

Carry a standard trad rack including cams up to #4 for protecting wide cracks.

Check for peregrine falcon seasonal closures before planning your ascent.

Consider linking pitches to reduce rope drag and optimize your rack size.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:Though rated at 5.10+, Sunset Strip offers a consistent challenge throughout its pitches, with cruxes populating finger and off-finger cracks that demand precise technique. The grade sits comfortably out of the beginner realm, yet feels fair compared to harder routes nearby like the Grand Wall. The 5.10d pitches introduce committing face climbs protected by bolts, giving a slightly stiffer feel at those segments.

Gear Requirements

A rack featuring cams up to size #4 BD and a solid complement of nuts is recommended. Complement with micro cams in the .3 to .75 range for optimal protection. All belays and rappel anchors are fixed, with rappel stations installed at pitch 7.

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Tags

finger crack
chimney
multi-pitch
trad
well-protected
exposed
solid granite
North Shore