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Stone Temple Pilots at Simpson Wall: A Friendly Trad Introduction

Welsford, New Brunswick Canada
hand crack
off-width
trad
beginner-friendly
tree anchor
single pitch
moderate protection
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Stone Temple Pilots
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Stone Temple Pilots offers an inviting trad climb on Simpson Wall with approachable cracks and reliable protection. Perfect for novice trad climbers, its single pitch balances straightforward moves with options for added challenge."

Stone Temple Pilots at Simpson Wall: A Friendly Trad Introduction

Stone Temple Pilots offers a straightforward introduction to traditional climbing on the Simpson Wall, a modest but engaging route that strikes a balance between approachable difficulty and solid protection. The climb starts with a clean, hand-sized crack that immediately draws your focus. As your fingers find purchase in the well-defined crevice, the climb sets a steady rhythm, leading you to a comfortable ledge that offers a brief moment to reassess and prepare for the final moves. From this point, the route opens into two primary options: you can tackle the off-width crack rated at 5.8 that demands more physical commitment, or explore the surrounding features—varied cracks and holds lining either side of the crack—that provide a more moderate challenge and a chance to move with finesse.

The protection throughout feels reliable, with placements that inspire confidence for newer trad climbers learning the ropes of gear placement and route reading. The final pitch leads you up to the top of a sizeable block, where a sturdy tree anchor awaits, offering a safe spot to set up a rappel or prepare for a straightforward walk-off descent. This accessibility, paired with the climb’s gentle 45-foot length, makes Stone Temple Pilots an ideal early lead for anyone looking to grow their trad skills in a supportive setting.

Situated in the quiet, rugged surroundings of Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick, the climb enjoys the crisp air and peaceful atmosphere of this less-visited enclave. The rock is solid and the routes well-maintained, allowing you to focus fully on movement and technique without distraction. As you ascend, the forest that edges the cliff shifts in and out of your view, the scent of pine carrying on faint breezes that cool your skin and remind you of the wildness just beyond the stone.

For those planning a trip, standard trad gear will suffice, and a minimalist rack efficiently covers the protections you’ll need. The tree anchor at the top simplifies your descent, either by rappel or by carefully negotiating the gentle walk-off trail. Early morning or late afternoon sessions are best to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid the sun soaking the rock, especially in summer. This route invites climbers to connect with traditional climbing fundamentals while soaking in a quiet, scenic landscape, making Stone Temple Pilots a solid choice for anyone stepping into trad climbing or seeking a casual, well-protected pitch in Maritime Canada.

Climber Safety

The off-width section, while optional, can be physically taxing and demands careful technique. Ensure your gear placements are solid in this crack, and double-check the top anchor tree for stability before rappelling. Approaching and descending trails may be slippery when wet, so tread with care.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Bring a light rack focused on medium-sized cams for the hand crack and off-width.

Early morning climbs avoid direct sun heating the rock surface in summer.

Set up the rappel on the sturdy tree at the top to descend safely.

Approach via the well-marked trail with moderate footing, allowing 15 minutes from the parking area.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.5, Stone Temple Pilots sits firmly in beginner trad territory, with a rating that accurately reflects its accessible style. The optional off-width section tests strength and technique at 5.8, giving climbers a chance to push themselves without undue risk or overcommitment. Compared to other local routes, this climb feels soft on the feet but demands clean gear placements, making it perfect for developing trad skills.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers all gear needs with straightforward placements in hand and off-width cracks. A tree anchor at the top makes for easy rappelling or walk-off.

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Tags

hand crack
off-width
trad
beginner-friendly
tree anchor
single pitch
moderate protection