"An exposed single-pitch trad route at the Smoke Bluffs, Sting in the Tail challenges climbers with a sharp crack start flowing into a boldly spaced bolt line on slab. Perfect for those seeking to hone crack skills alongside precise slab moves."
Sting in the Tail offers an engaging single-pitch trad climb that commands respect from the moment you set hands on the beginning crack shared with Tail Wind. This route is a compact burst of technical climbing, combining solid crack jamming with a contrasting slab finish that calls for careful footwork and confident movement. Located in the renowned Smoke Bluffs area of Squamish, British Columbia, the climb challenges you to navigate an obvious crack to reach an upper block of slab, where the route shifts character—requiring you to transition from secure hand jams to delicate slab climbing aided by bolts, spaced generously apart. The rock is crisp and reliable, yet the slab’s expanse dares you to commit to precise placements and balance. Whether approaching as a warm-up or seeking a focused pitch with a punch, Sting in the Tail demands attention to gear and movement.
Approach here leads you through the Bughouse Heights sector, a quick and straightforward access point within Squamish’s dynamic Smoke Bluffs climbing network. The terrain is easy to negotiate, making it suitable for climbers looking to maximize time on the rock without an exhausting hike. The climb’s southern exposure makes the morning sun your ally, but by midday, shadows creep in, offering welcome relief during warmer days. With a short pitch length and mostly straightforward movement, the route appeals to trad climbers ready to brush up on crack techniques while embracing the challenge of slab climbing.
Protection is minimal but thoughtfully placed—expect three bolts on the slab section alongside a standard trad rack for the initial crack. The bolts are set with generous spacing, creating a sense of exposure and a need for confidence on the slab that caps the climb. The shared start with Tail Wind provides a blend of familiar sequences before the route steers right toward its distinct finish. Careful attention to gear placement and protection strategy ensures a safe ascent in a place where risk feels balanced. Post-climb, Squamish’s expansive views and forested surroundings offer a sensory reward, from the whisper of pine needles stirred by mountain breezes to glimpses of the distant Tantalus Range.
In preparation, climbers should carry small cams for the crack and be ready to trust their feet as they negotiate the bolts above. Early spring through fall serves as the optimal climbing season, avoiding soggy rock and the chill of winter months. Comfortable climbing shoes with sticky rubber will help secure footing on the slab’s clean face. Hydration and sun protection are essentials, especially on exposed days when the rock fully catches the light. Overall, Sting in the Tail supplies a concise, focused challenge that captures both the gritty crack climbing spirit and the finesse of slab climbing, framed within one of Canada’s most celebrated climbing communities.
The bolts on the slab section are spaced widely apart, so clip carefully and maintain focus during transitions. Moisture on the slab can turn footholds slick, especially after rain or morning dew—check conditions before attempting the upper moves.
The climb shares its crack start with Tail Wind—be ready to follow the distinct bolt line veering right on the slab.
Morning climbs are best for sun exposure; afternoon shadows cool the slab but reduce light.
Bring sticky shoes with reliable edging performance for slab climbing.
Hydrate well and watch the weather, as damp slab conditions can make footing tricky.
Bring a standard trad rack with small to medium cams for the initial crack, plus confidence in footing for climbing the three widely spaced bolts that secure the upper slab section.
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