"Sticky Fingers carves a right-facing corner and crack on The Chief’s granite face, delivering a solid 5.9 trad climb. With a punchy start and a reassuring rappel, it offers an engaging taste of Squamish’s classic climbing landscape."
Sticky Fingers offers climbers a striking initiation into the rugged granite walls of The Chief, one of Squamish's most iconic climbing destinations. The route carves a path along a narrow right-facing corner that swiftly channels into a right-leaning crack, creating a natural groove that both challenges and guides your ascent. From the moment your fingers seek purchase on the rough granite, the climb demands precise movement and focus. The initial crux is punchy and immediately tests your balance and crack technique before the route relaxes just enough to maintain a steady rhythm, but never losing its edge. The exposed bolts at the upper ledge mark a reassuring safety point and prepare you for a smooth rappel down the left side using a 60-meter rope.
Squamish’s granite is etched with features that invite hands and feet alike, and Sticky Fingers feels like a conversation with the rock—sometimes requiring subtle finesse, at other times raw strength. The 115-foot pitch feels alive as the sun shifts its light across the face, catching the texture in sharp relief while the surrounding forest below murmurs quietly, a reminder of the wilderness encircling this climbing jewel.
Preparation is key: bring a standard rack with a few extras tuned to the length of the pitch, as placements near the crux are vital for confidence and flow. The approach is straightforward but expect a short hike over uneven stone and forest floor, which primes you for the simple elegance of the climb itself. Once at the top, the satisfaction of having conquered this classic line is amplified by the stunning panorama of Howe Sound far below.
The timing for Sticky Fingers is also crucial. Morning light warms the face, making early starts the best bet for comfortable climbing, especially in summer. In cooler months, the granite chills quickly, so layering appropriately is advised. Descent via rappel is straightforward but demands attention to rope management and anchor checks to ensure a safe return to the base.
Ultimately, Sticky Fingers stands out as an accessible yet compelling route for trad climbers eager to experience Squamish’s renowned granite without the commitment of longer, more complex routes. It strikes a balance between technical challenge and memorable movement, and its position on The Chief places climbers at the heart of a vibrant climbing community and breathtaking natural setting.
The initial crux requires precise gear placements—ensure pro is solid before committing. The rappel anchors are fixed bolts but verify their integrity and avoid rope drag by careful rigging. Approach rock can be slippery when wet.
Start early to enjoy warmer granite and avoid afternoon shadows.
Use a 60m rope for the rappel down the left side of the route.
Check all anchors carefully before rappelling; gear can shift with use.
Wear stiff-soled shoes for precise edging on the granite edges.
Bring a standard trad rack with a few extra pieces to cover the length of the climb; gear placements near the crux are critical for secure protection.
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