"Steve’s Overhang stands as a focused trad route carving a thin roof crack at Cochrane Lane Cliffs. Perfect for those refining crack climbing skills, it offers a straightforward yet deliberate single pitch challenge with dependable protection."
Steve's Overhang offers climbers a compelling introduction to the traditional routes of New Brunswick’s Cochrane Lane Cliffs, located in the rugged and raw landscape of Welsford. This single-pitch climb stands out with a distinctive thinner roof crack positioned just to the right of Ian's Overhang, forming a natural gateway to a more extended adventure on the adjacent Reindeer Land route. Approach this climb expecting an intimate rock encounter where hands and feet negotiate the constraints of the narrow crack, testing placement precision and body positioning.
The climb's 5.6 rating presents an accessible challenge for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills without overwhelming exposure or complex sequences. It suits climbers who appreciate a steady rhythm balanced by subtle technical demands. The standard rack is adequate protection, but bring attention to the placement quality required—the crack is narrow and requires good pro sizing and thoughtful placement to feel confident.
Accessing Steve's Overhang means venturing into the heart of Cochrane Lane’s cliff band, a slice of Welsford’s rugged coastal geology. The approach trails are moderate, guiding you through a mixed forest track before the rock face asserts itself with its sheer verticality and texture. The rock demands presence; the overhang invites a measured pace, a mental engagement distinct from straightforward slab climbs.
While brief, the route offers a palpable sense of progression, a gateway offering a taste of the cliffs’ broader climbing potential. The area itself basks in a quiet, reflective atmosphere common to many of New Brunswick’s climbing spots—unspoiled, slightly wild, and rewarding to those who invest the effort. Given the moderate grade, the route is ideal for climbers honing traditional skills or looking for a solid warm-up before longer multi-pitch lines.
Timing the climb’s sunny exposure is practical: the wall faces a direction that warms as the afternoon progresses, so starting mid to late morning will avoid colder morning chills and late-day humidity. Gear up with standard trad rack essentials; finger-sized cams will find steady holds in the crack, and a medium-sized rack offers ample security.
Safety remains a priority; the crack’s overhanging nature means placements can be sparse and slightly more challenging to secure. Stay deliberate, communicate clearly with your belayer, and secure a firm stance on the ledge below before committing moves. Descent is straightforward, with a walk-off back to the base, allowing climbers to savor a leisurely transition after the focused climb.
Steve’s Overhang embodies a climb that invites reflection on crack technique and confidence on less obvious lines. It’s a route that blends approachable difficulty with the subtle demands of protection and movement, perfectly framing the understated power of Cochrane Lane’s granite cliffs.
The overhanging crack offers limited gear placement opportunities; be mindful to thoroughly test cams before making committed moves. Weather can affect rock grip, so avoid climbing when the crack is wet or icy. Approach terrain can be uneven, so stay aware of footing while arriving and leaving.
Start mid to late morning for optimal warmth and to avoid early moisture on the rock.
Bring a full rack with a focus on smaller cams for reliable placement.
Communicate clearly with your belayer due to the overhang’s subtle protection challenges.
Plan for a walk-off descent—ensure sturdy footwear for uneven terrain after the climb.
A standard trad rack equipped with finger to medium cams is recommended to secure placements in the thinner roof crack. Protection is straightforward but requires attention to detail in placing gear within the narrow features.
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