HomeClimbingSteve's Arete

Steve's Arete at Rattlesnake Point: A Crisp Trad Challenge

Milton, Ontario Canada
thin crack
ledge
traverse
arete
single pitch
trad gear
limestone
moderate grade
Length: ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Steve's Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Steve's Arete is a focused trad climb carving a narrow crack leading to a tricky traverse and bold finish on Rattlesnake Point's Main Wall. It’s perfect for climbers aiming to sharpen gear placements and balance on solid limestone in a stunning but approachable setting."

Steve's Arete at Rattlesnake Point: A Crisp Trad Challenge

Steve's Arete invites climbers into a sharply defined crack system that tests delicate finger jams and balance on Ontario's iconic Main Wall at Rattlesnake Point. This short but focused route demands precise movement up a narrow crack leading to a small ledge—a natural pause before traversing right. The rock's texture offers secure edges and rough features, requiring thoughtful gear placements as you navigate diagonally toward the striking arete. The climb finishes by heading straight up, rewarding effort with clear exposure and a satisfying sense of control over this classic 5.6 trad line. The environment is marked by the cliff’s rugged limestone, its surface cool to the touch under the shade of the surrounding trees. Ambient sounds of the nearby escarpment’s winds mix with the occasional call of local birds, adding a quietly electric backdrop to the climb. Given its single pitch and moderate rating, Steve's Arete is an excellent introduction to trad climbing for newcomers while still offering moments of focused technique for more experienced climbers who appreciate the subtle challenge of crack climbing. Approaching the route involves a well-maintained but moderately steep path from the parking area, roughly a 15-minute hike with some loose rock near the base. Climbers will want to pack a rack of small to medium-sized cams and nuts to protect the line effectively, as fixed gear is minimal. This short outing can comfortably fit into a half-day of climbing at Rattlesnake Point, leaving room to explore other nearby routes. Best climbed in spring or fall, when temperatures temper overhead heat and the walls retain good friction. Shoes with sticky rubber and a firm sole will help maintain foot precision on edges and mantles along the traverse section. While the climb is approachable, keep an eye on weather conditions; wet limestone becomes slippery quickly and the somewhat exposed location can make the ledge feel airy. Overall, Steve's Arete combines accessible technical moves with practical protection, set in a striking natural area that embodies the spirit of Ontario trad climbing.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the traverse section where the footing narrows and protection can be tricky. The ledge offers limited space, so maintaining balance is critical. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet, as the limestone quickly loses grip and increases slip risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via the well-marked trail; expect a 15-minute hike with some loose rock near the base.

Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid hot, sweaty conditions and optimize friction.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber and firm soles for precise edging and mantling.

Watch the weather closely—wet limestone can become dangerously slick.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating here is straightforward with a clean crux centered around crack jams and a technical traverse. The grade feels true to standard mid-5th class climbs in the region, offering a gentle challenge without hidden difficulties. Compared to other local routes, it’s a solid step up from beginner cracks but doesn’t push into strenuous territory.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts, as protection relies primarily on gear placements in the crack and around the traverse. Minimal fixed gear is present, so precise placements are essential.

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Tags

thin crack
ledge
traverse
arete
single pitch
trad gear
limestone
moderate grade