HomeClimbingStefanie's Tears

Stefanie's Tears: A Focused Trad Challenge on Squamish's Starr Wall

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
arete
multi-pitch
bolted anchors
northwest aspect
moderate exposure
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Stefanie's Tears
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Stefanie's Tears is a focused two-pitch trad climb on Squamish’s Starr Wall that offers sustained finger crack climbing and engaging movements. Ideal for those stepping up from beginner trad routes, it combines technical crack work with exposure and solid protection in a stunning coastal forest setting."

Stefanie's Tears: A Focused Trad Challenge on Squamish's Starr Wall

Stefanie's Tears offers a compact yet engaging two-pitch trad climb tucked just to the right of High Mountain Woody on Squamish’s renowned Starr Wall. This route elevates the challenge slightly compared to its neighbor, rewarding climbers with sustained moves and a strong presence of finger crack techniques that invite attentiveness and steady rhythm. From the moment you step off the approach trail, the sharp scent of forest and cold granite sets the stage for an experience both straightforward and bold.

The first pitch starts with a scramble past a noticeable tree stump, quickly drawing you into a left-leaning finger crack that tests hand jams and delicate foot placements. Just as you settle into the groove, a large right-side undercling appears, daring you to reach across and clip the second bolt from a nearby route, Neighborhood Bully. This move requires a slightly committing shift, balancing technical precision with a splash of adventure. Moving right from there, the pitch concludes along a clean arete that exposes you to high, open granite slabs and sweeping views of the rugged coastline and thick cedar groves below. The bolted belay at View Ledge provides a reassuring anchor and a spectacular point to pause and soak in the surroundings.

Pitch two ups the ante with an obvious corner crack line, beckoning climbers to test their layback skills. While there's freedom to explore variations here, the classic layback move is both playful and satisfying, flowing over solid rock that demands focus but delivers rhythm and reward. The climbing eases slightly to 5.8, offering a chance to catch your breath after the more intense first pitch.

Protection largely consists of traditional gear placements up to one inch, with the option to carry doubles around the .5 and .75Cam sizes for added security on the second pitch’s corner. The bolted anchors on the route guarantee safe transitions and add peace of mind, particularly given the exposure.

Reaching this route requires a moderate approach through Squamish’s dense forest, where trails are well marked but can be slippery after rain, so sturdy footwear is essential. The climb's northwestern aspect means mornings often offer cool, shaded rock—perfect for warm-weather ascents—while afternoons bring sunlight to the upper reaches, balancing temperature and grip.

Stefanie’s Tears is an ideal next step for climbers comfortable on 5.8 trad who want to push sustained 5.9 finger crack climbing in a beautiful setting. The route’s blend of technical moves, moderately committing sequences, and excellent belay positions make it a tidy outing without the need for extensive gear or deep wilderness navigation. Whether you’re prepping for longer days on the Squamish walls or simply looking for a punchy two-pitch tradition climb with rewarding views, this route offers a precise balance of challenge and accessibility.

Prepare for variable conditions typical of coastal climbing with layered clothing and expect the rock to be cool to the touch for much of the day. Carrying extra cams can boost confidence on the corner, but the route remains friendly and straightforward for those who know their cam placements. Hydration and solid shoes are non-negotiable here—comfort on the approach trail and footwork on the crack are equally critical.

Stefanie's Tears invites you into direct contact with the mountain’s stark granite faces, asking for skillful hands and calm minds. It’s a focused climb that tests technique and composure under exposure, while surrounding you with the quiet presence of British Columbia’s coastal wilderness. Climb smart, move steady, and take a moment at View Ledge to appreciate the vastness below before sending the final moves up the corner crack.

Climber Safety

Watch for slick rock near the tree stump on the lower pitch, especially after rain. The undercling move requires confidence and careful foot placements; a fall here could be serious due to the exposure. Bolted anchors are sound but double-check all placements before committing to tricky sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail can be slick when wet; wear sturdy shoes with good grip.

Early mornings offer cool, shaded climbs; afternoon sun warms the upper wall.

Hydrate well before the climb—there’s no water source near the belays.

Use doubles of smaller cams for more confident placements in the corner crack.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Stefanie’s Tears presents a solid challenge with sustained finger cracks and a tricky clip across an undercling that adds a modest crux. The grade feels true to difficulty—slightly stiffer than nearby High Mountain Woody—but nothing extreme, making it a natural progression for trad climbers comfortable at 5.8 and looking to push their technique on longer, more exposed pitches.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to 1 inch, with optional doubles of .5 and .75 Camalots for added security on pitch two. Bolted anchors streamline belays.

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Tags

finger crack
arete
multi-pitch
bolted anchors
northwest aspect
moderate exposure