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Starters at Goat Wall: A Classic Trad Climb in the Kootenays

Nelson, British Columbia Canada
trad crack
multi-pitch
slab climbing
finger crack
bolted anchors
Kootenays
British Columbia
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Starters
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Starters on Goat Wall offers a balanced four-pitch trad climb featuring textured slabs, cracks, and engaging moves up to 5.9. Located in the Kootenays’ Whitewater Rocks, it’s an ideal adventure for climbers looking to combine solid protection with varied terrain and a rewarding alpine approach."

Starters at Goat Wall: A Classic Trad Climb in the Kootenays

The Starters route on Goat Wall offers an engaging four-pitch trad climb that balances approachable challenges with the rugged character of British Columbia’s Kootenays. Located within the Whitewater Rocks area, this climb unfolds across 300 feet of textured slabs, cracks, and corners, each pitch inviting you to engage with the rock’s personality and test your gear placement skills. The climb begins with a “bonus” first pitch—featuring bolts and gear—making it a solid choice when snow cover is clear. Early moves require precise footing on featured slabs, leading to a loose, slanting ledge that demands steady commitment to move upward safely.

Advancing through second pitch, the route veers across shimmering slabs with well-placed bolts guiding your ascent. Here, the rock surfaces shift in texture, offering karmic rewards to those who read the line carefully and trust their balance. Combining P1 and P2 into a single push is a common strategy, keeping momentum through the lower section.

Pitch three ramps up to 5.8 difficulty with a mix of bolted and traditional protection. A small overlap tests your positioning before the climb drifts left toward a main corner. This right-facing corner isn’t just a physical feature; it feels like an active participant, pushing gently against your foot smears and demanding a smooth, confident layback crack technique as you ascend.

The final pitch ratchets difficulty to 5.9 with a series of delicate bolt-protected moves. A rising traverse requires careful footwork and balance, followed by a broken groove and a thin finger crack that beckon precision. The last slab move is guarded by a final bolt and challenges your ability to maintain composure on less-than-obvious holds. Reaching the two-bolt anchor at Goat Wall’s summit delivers a well-earned sense of accomplishment.

From here, a short scramble veers left and upward toward the NW Ridge of Half Dome. The approach continues along a gentle ridge towards Half Dome’s SW face. A brief steep descent and contour along loose talus link this climb into further riding lines that beckon exploration. The setting’s raw texture—the crunch of loose rock underfoot, the sharp scent of alpine air, and intermittent views toward forested valleys—immerses you in a climbing experience rooted deeply in the mountain’s rugged reality.

Starters is well-protected with bolted anchors throughout, but a standard rack for traditional placements is essential, especially on the more demanding middle and upper pitches. The route suits climbers familiar with slab and crack climbing who want a multi-pitch adventure that’s varied and rewarding without feeling overrun.

Plan to start early to take full advantage of the morning shade cast by Goat Wall’s west-facing aspect, especially during warmer months. Wear reliable climbing shoes with solid edging capabilities, and carry hydration suited to mountain exposure. The descent involves scrambling and negotiating loose talus, so sturdy approach shoes and careful footing on the return are critical for safety.

Whether you're stepping into trad multi-pitch climbing or seeking an accessible yet textured objective in the Kootenays, Starters presents a vivid encounter with the mountain’s subtle challenges and direct rewards. It’s a climb that asks for attention to detail, patience with the rock’s quirks, and appreciation for a climb that unfolds one intentional move at a time.

Climber Safety

Loose rock especially on ledges and talus areas can pose hazard; stay vigilant on transitions between pitches. Pay particular attention to the loose slanting ledge on pitch 1 and section below Half Dome’s SW face during the descent. Weather shifts rapidly in the Kootenays—prepare for sudden changes and wet rock conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to benefit from morning shade on Goat Wall’s west-facing face.

Combine pitches 1 and 2 to maintain flow and avoid linger in exposed slab sections.

Wear climbing shoes with solid edging for delicate slab and crack sequences.

Prepare for loose talus on the approach and descent—sturdy shoes and careful footing are essential.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating holds true on pitch 4, which offers a sustained series of technical moves including traverses and thin cracks that require clean footwork and steady crimps. Compared to nearby Kootenay routes, Starters delivers a consistent challenge with some soft spots on the lower pitches but a firm crux that justifies the upper grade. The bolt placements ease the mental load without diluting the physical demands.

Gear Requirements

All bolted anchors streamline safe belays across all pitches. Bring a standard trad rack to handle natural cracks and layback placements, especially on P3 and P4. Expect to use smaller cams and nuts in thin finger crack sections, combined with bolting that offers security on slab moves.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
slab climbing
finger crack
bolted anchors
Kootenays
British Columbia