Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingStanding Wave

Standing Wave on Mount Athelstan: A Challenging Alpine Trad Climb

Whistler, Canada
arete
hanging slab
runout
alpine approach
multi-pitch
Sea to Sky
5.9 R
trad gear
mixed terrain
Length: 1800 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
12
Location
Standing Wave
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Standing Wave is a demanding 12-pitch trad climb on Mount Athelstan’s Fantastic Wall, weaving technical aretes and hanging slabs with alpine exposure. Its mix of sustained moves and variable protection invites climbers with a taste for both precision and adventure."

Standing Wave on Mount Athelstan: A Challenging Alpine Trad Climb

Standing Wave stakes its claim as the leftmost line on the Fantastic Wall of Mount Athelstan, a striking alpine route that merges sharp rock features with high-altitude wilderness. From the outset, this climb demands attention—starting just to the left of the main gully beside Moonraker, the route ascends a defined arete before navigating a hanging slab that challenges climbers with both technical moves and exposure.

The first pitch sets the tone with a steady climb along the arete, rewarding you with solid belay stances nestled beneath a steep wall rated at a moderate 5.7. Soon after, traversing left along a ledge that shifts into a natural handrail keeps you close to the rock's sculpted contours, culminating in a demanding pull over a vertical section onto a hanging slab that beckons focus and precision.

Mid-route, the climb shifts into a corner system outlining the right edge of the slab, featuring long sections of smooth, flat incut holds that provide welcome security despite sparse protection options. Here, runners will find themselves relying on delicate placements and a steady head as the rock quality improves without much room for error. A small cam and a piton hidden in a groove mark the final belay before the grade stiffens to 5.9 on thin cracks and face moves that force climbers to engage fully, especially on the crux bulge.

The concluding pitches guide adventurers through a mix of blocky terrain with better protection, leading to a snowpatch resting high on the face. Approaching late in the season, rubble can creep onto the route, requiring extra vigilance. From here, an airy traverse sweeps left at about 35 degrees, bridging the snowy ground to a final arete climb at 5.6 that opens out onto the summit rim.

Climbers should prepare for varied conditions—standard trad gear up to 3 inches is crucial, complimented by a few knifeblades and lost arrows for tricky belays within the runout sections. A short approach involving crampons and an ice axe underlines the alpine nature of the climb and the necessity of solid mountaineering skills to negotiate both ascent and retreat safely.

Standing Wave offers an immersive combination of technical trad climbing and alpine adventure, set against the vast backdrop of British Columbia's Sea to Sky corridor. It’s a route that courts both excitement and thoughtful planning, rewarding climbers who come equipped and ready to read the mountain's shifting moods. Whether chasing the rhythm of the rock or soaking in the bird’s-eye views of the surrounding wilderness, this route promises a memorable alpine day with a clear challenge and tangible beauty.

Climber Safety

Expect runout sections where gear placements are limited, requiring cautious movement and clean fall potential. The alpine approach and descent demand good snow and ice travel skills; crampons and an ice axe are not optional. Late-season looseness around the snowpatch can increase objective hazard.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches12
Length1800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Sea to Sky corridor.

Be prepared for runout sections especially on pitches 5 and 6; good route reading is essential.

Snowpatch crossing on pitches 9-10 can be technical late in season, so timing is key.

Descend carefully using crampons and axe; it’s a mix of downclimbing and snow travel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating reflects a route that balances technical climbing with serious runout exposure, especially on the middle pitches where protection is sparse. The crux involves delicate face moves over a bulge that demand precision and confidence. Compared to nearby routes in the Sea to Sky area, Standing Wave offers a stiffer challenge that rewards experienced trad climbers comfortable with alpine settings.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack up to 3 inches with several knifeblades and lost arrows for the runout crux pitches. Ice axe and crampons are essential for the approach and descent given alpine conditions.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Standing Wave and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

arete
hanging slab
runout
alpine approach
multi-pitch
Sea to Sky
5.9 R
trad gear
mixed terrain