HomeClimbingStandard Route, West Lion

Standard Route, West Lion: A Raw Alpine Scramble Above Howe Sound

Vancouver, Canada
exposed
scramble
alpine
north shore
trad potential
exposure
red-dot traverse
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Standard Route, West Lion
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Standard Route up West Lion unfolds as a rugged alpine scramble just beyond Howe Sound, demanding respect and focus. Expect exposed traverses marked by red dots, a challenging notch downclimb, and steep scrambling with serious consequences for any slip."

Standard Route, West Lion: A Raw Alpine Scramble Above Howe Sound

Approaching the West Lion via the Standard Route invites climbers into a wild, demanding environment perched above the North Shore Mountains. Your journey begins at the notch just south of the West Lion’s summit ridge, a critical junction that sets the tone for what lies ahead. This notch separates the peak from the rest of the Howe Sound Crest and is approachable via a downclimb that requires care and focus. A knotted fixed rope is available here as an aid, but it’s essential to test its security before relying on it—without the rope, expect a brief section of low fifth-class climbing that demands precise footwork and steady nerves.

From the notch, you embark on the key challenge of the route: a traverse along the base of the West Lion’s steep rock face. Painted red dots mark the path, guiding you through exposed scrambling sections that lean into low fourth-class difficulty. A fixed rope runs alongside this traverse, but it’s strongly advised to avoid using it. The rope’s reliability is questionable and pulling on it could result in a catastrophic fall. The rock itself demands your full attention, each hold tested as you manage your balance against the mountain’s raw features. The traverse stands as the route’s crux, not for technical climbing complexity, but for the mental focus required to navigate the exposure safely.

Beyond the traverse, steep scrambling leads the way to the summit—the gradient easing but the potential consequences of any fall remaining grave. The rock feels alive here, sharp edges and rough textures pushing you to stay aware. Route finding becomes a critical skill, with occasional detours requiring careful choices and the willingness to retrace steps. Descending is no simple reverse; safe backtracking and caution with loose surfaces are paramount. The mountain rewards those who respect its demands with sweeping views of Howe Sound’s deep waters and forested ridges stretching toward Vancouver, creating a vivid contrast to the nerve-testing terrain below.

This is not a climb to be taken lightly. Protection, if used, is minimal and unconventional—slings around roots and trees may assist a roped party, but most undertake this as a serious scramble rather than a traditional technical ascent. The route’s alpine character blends scrambling with occasional climbing moves, calling for solid experience, sure-footedness, and attention to detail. Weather can shift swiftly; optimal timing in clear, dry conditions is crucial for safety and enjoyment.

Practical preparation is key: sturdy footwear with good grip, hydration for a few hours on steep terrain, and mental readiness for exposure keep you well-equipped. Given recent fatal accidents, a cautious approach is essential. The West Lion via the Standard Route offers a raw alpine experience that straddles scrambling and climbing, where the mountain tests both your physical footing and your calculated judgment to reach its summit peak beyond Howe Sound’s shorelines.

Climber Safety

Falls on this route can have severe consequences; do not trust the fixed ropes without checking their integrity. Loose rock and steep, exposed sections call for cautious movement and no solo attempts unless highly confident in low-class scrambling skills.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Test the knotted fixed rope at the notch before use—don’t rely on it blindly.

Avoid using the fixed rope on the traverse; trust your footwork instead.

Practice precise route finding and don’t hesitate to backtrack if uncertain.

Plan the climb in stable, dry weather to reduce risk on exposed rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
4th
Quality
Consensus:Classed as a 4th class scramble, the rating feels accurate for the sustained exposure and route-finding challenges. The crux lies in the traverse rather than technical moves, but the mental demands elevate the difficulty beyond a simple scramble. Compared to other North Shore scrambles, this line stands out for its serious exposure and the real risk of fatal falls.

Gear Requirements

The route rarely sees traditional protection placements; however, a cautious climber with a rope can sling roots and trees to protect key sections. Most treat it as an exposed scramble rather than a technical climb.

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Tags

exposed
scramble
alpine
north shore
trad potential
exposure
red-dot traverse