HomeClimbingStairway to Heaven

Stairway to Heaven: Squamish’s Premier Multi-Pitch Sport Route

Squamish, Canada
offwidth
multi-pitch
exposed ledges
fixed ropes
granite slab
reachy moves
sustained
bolt protected
crux pitch
scramble approach
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
16
Location
Stairway to Heaven
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Stairway to Heaven weaves a technical 16-pitch challenge along The Chief’s majestic granite walls. This sport climb demands precise footwork, sustained effort, and deft navigation, rewarding climbers with sweeping views and an authentic Squamish experience."

Stairway to Heaven: Squamish’s Premier Multi-Pitch Sport Route

Set against the towering cliffs of The Chief in Squamish, Stairway to Heaven is a demanding 16-pitch sport climb that blends technical moves with sustained exposure. From the moment you leave the campground below and head left past the campsite shelter, you’ll track a faint trail tracing the cliff base until a hidden gully offers a scramble to a fixed rope. This initial approach already pulls you into the gritty, hands-on nature of the climb—no easy walk-in here.

The route begins near the Slot Machine with 'Women in Comfortable Shoes,' a pitch that challenges your footwork on tight edges and micro crimps. The outside edge of your left foot gets tested early, setting the tone for a day of precise, confident climbing. Following this, the climbs shift through a mix of crack systems, slabs, and scattered nubbins, each pitch delivering its own variation of technical effort and crumbly rock character. Notable pitches like 'Xenolith Dance' and the offwidth in 'Women in Comfortable Shoes' showcase Squamish’s unique granite texture, urging climbers to engage every part of their climbing skillset.

Beyond the physical demands, the surrounding forested trails and occasional ledge breaks connect the climbing into a larger journey through The Chief’s rugged expanse. After the initial pitches, a short hike leads to a nerve-testing fixed line over an exposed ledge, reminding you that approach terrain and transition sections are as much a part of the adventure as the climbing itself.

Mid-route, the crux reveals itself with the infamous 'Millennium Falcon' pitches. These stretches demand sustained concentration on steep, juggy lines with bolts spaced to keep you honest. The key moves involve a careful dance across a jagged roof and delicate steps around reachy holds—this is where stamina and technique must unite. 'The Universal Key' further tests confidence with a steep dihedral and reachy stemming moves that reward persistence with sweeping views and a rare feeling of hard-won achievement.

As the climb winds towards the summit, 'Traverse of the Gods' offers a dynamic journey across slabs and dykes, keeping feet engaged and focus sharp. The upper pitches, including 'Mr. Ciechanowski' and 'Ladies First,' let climbers tap into the classic Squamish style—reachy, juggy sequences punctuated by technical transitions. Keep an eye out for loose rock on the upper black dyke; careful movement here protects both you and climbers below.

From a practical standpoint, the protection is straightforward: a combination of fixed bolts throughout and a recommended #2 Camalot for some optional gear placements. Players should prepare for long pitches and route-finding challenges. The approach and interludes require sturdy, grippy footwear with enough traction for quick scrambles and exposed traverses.

Timing your climb right is essential: morning starts give the best light and typically drier conditions, while afternoons can bring sun warming the rock but also more wind. Weather in Squamish is famously changeable, so pack for variable conditions and plan your day to avoid the afternoon storms common in warmer months.

Navigation and descent combine hiking and downclimbing, with fixed ropes aiding the most exposed sections. The route’s complexity demands careful planning for haul systems and bivy considerations if you aim to climb all sixteen pitches in one go.

Stairway to Heaven is not just a climb; it is an expedition on some of British Columbia’s most dramatic granite, inviting climbers to test skill, endurance, and mental strength amid breathtaking natural surroundings.

Climber Safety

Several sections feature exposed traverses and fixed ropes; approach with caution, especially on unstable terrain. Loose rock on upper sections requires extra vigilance to protect yourself and your partners. The offwidth flake demands precise placements and may present gear challenges for inexperienced climbers.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches16
Length feet

Local Tips

Begin early to take advantage of cooler morning conditions and avoid afternoon wind uplift.

Wear shoes with excellent edging ability; technical foot placements are crucial on micro crimps.

Approach involves a scramble with fixed ropes—ensure you’re comfortable on exposed terrain.

Watch for loose rock on the upper black dyke pitch, and avoid dislodging debris onto climbers below.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating reflects a sustained and sometimes reachy challenge with tight footwork and technical sequences spread across multiple pitches. The crux pitches 'Millennium Falcon' and 'The Universal Key' elevate the difficulty with demanding moves that feel true to grade, rather than softened. Climbers familiar with nearby routes like 'Women in Comfortable Shoes' will find similar styles but expect the endurance required to grow as the climb progresses.

Gear Requirements

The route is bolted with approximately 12 bolts per pitch complemented by an optional #2 Camalot or #2 Link Cam for offwidth placements and tricky sections. Carrying this gear is recommended for added security and to protect the offwidth flake on pitch two.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Stairway to Heaven and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

offwidth
multi-pitch
exposed ledges
fixed ropes
granite slab
reachy moves
sustained
bolt protected
crux pitch
scramble approach