"Stairway to Heaven Direct offers a compact but demanding 95-foot pitch on the Atomic Wall, blending smooth low-angle climbing with a sharp vertical headwall. With solid bolted protection and a straightforward approach, it’s an essential sport route for climbers exploring New Brunswick’s quieter walls."
Stairway to Heaven Direct carves a bold line up the Atomic Wall, inviting climbers to step beyond the usual and confront a short but potent pitch of 5.9 sport climbing. This 95-foot route begins by tracing the low-angled terrain near the wall's center, a gentle introduction that soon yields to a steeper, vertical headwall demanding focused movement and steady footwork. As you push upward, the rock’s texture grips your fingertips and the bolts provide reassuring anchors, making it rewarding for those ready to embrace a direct, climbing-focused experience.
The Atomic Wall sits within the quieter reaches of the Welsford area in New Brunswick, Canada. This spot delivers a raw, somewhat remote feel that appeals to climbers seeking a meaningful ascent away from crowds. The approach is straightforward enough to encourage a focused day trip, yet the environment still whispers the challenges of wilderness climbing — cool breezes sifting through deciduous trees and the occasional call of birds overhead.
At one pitch, Stairway to Heaven Direct is an accessible venture for anyone comfortable with 5.9 sport routes but requires attention to detail — the shift from easier terrain to the vertical headwall demands precise foot placements and controlled breathing. The well-spaced bolts enhance safety while letting the rock’s natural lines shine, emphasizing body positioning over sheer power.
Planning your climb here benefits from clarity on a few key points: expect a short approach leading to the base of the climb, sturdy shoes that handle both slabby and vertical sections, and a daylight window that includes mid-morning to early afternoon to catch the rock at its best temperature. Hydration and layering are essential since New Brunswick’s variable climate can shift quickly, especially in shoulder seasons.
In summary, Stairway to Heaven Direct is a crisp, focused line that balances approachable difficulty with invigorating vertical exposure. It rewards climbers seeking a direct challenge with solid protection and the quiet charm of the Welsford climbing zone. Whether you’re honing lead skills or hunting for a brisk but memorable lead, this climb stakes its claim among the region’s standout sport routes.
While the protection is solid with bolts spaced evenly, the rock can be compact and smooth in places—maintain deliberate foot placements and avoid rushing especially on the vertical sections. The approach trail can be slick in wet conditions, so take care during access.
Approach the base via the established trail leading through forested terrain; wear sturdy shoes for uneven footing.
Climb between mid-morning and early afternoon for optimal rock temperature and lighting.
Layer clothing as temperatures can shift swiftly in this region, especially during spring and fall.
Bring ample water and snacks, as Welsford’s climbing areas have limited facilities.
This route features numerous bolts offering solid protection throughout the climb, ideal for sport climbers who want secure clipping points without the need for additional gear.
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