"Stairs of Mordor stands apart from the typical Kitselas climbs with a gritty 5.9 roofed corner that challenges your technical skills and anchor setup. A single pitch that demands care at the summit, this route blends rugged climbing and practical trad tactics."
For climbers visiting Lower Kitselas in Northern British Columbia, the Stairs of Mordor presents a distinct challenge that diverges from the usual rhythm of nearby walls. This single-pitch trad route, rated 5.9, invites you to scramble into a secluded, deep corner where the climbing intensifies as you shift left and face steep roofs overhead. The left variation, anchored with two hangers, offers a reliable top rope option if you carefully navigate around the wall’s flanks, though the approach to these anchors demands caution due to loose, unstable ground littered with dead foliage. The right variation ups the ante with harder moves but has no fixed anchors, requiring confidence and self-sufficiency to lead or clean.
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Kitselas canyon, this climb reveals a raw slice of northern BC’s climbing character — rough surfaces, challenging roof sequences, and a terrain that encourages both focus and adaptability. The rock feels alive with texture and subtle shifts beneath your fingers, while the narrow corner acts almost like a gatekeeper, testing both technical skill and mental grit.
Access is straightforward but demands awareness; the scramble in leads through uneven terrain, a reminder of the area’s wilderness edge. Top roping is feasible but requires setting your own secure anchors if the fixed line tied to a nearby tree seems untrustworthy — time and weather have frayed this lifeline, adding a layer of responsibility to safety planning.
This route is ideal for those who appreciate a blend of moderate technical challenge and practical skills in anchor building. It’s a climb that feels honest; no glamor, just the raw effort matched with the rewarding feeling of negotiating a sharp, roofed corner head-on in a quiet, seldom-crowded corner of Kitselas. For your visit, prepare sturdy footwear that can handle loose ground with a sure step, bring extra gear to supplement the thin fixed protection, and time your climb to avoid wet conditions that could loosen the already fragile top-out.
Whether you’re stepping into this climb as a warm-up or a key objective, the Stairs of Mordor offers a grounded, hands-on experience with the area’s distinct granite and rugged personality. It’s the kind of route that sharpens your trad instincts and leaves you with a clear sense of accomplishment amid British Columbia’s towering north.
Loose debris at the anchor zone presents a significant hazard; extra caution when moving near the top is essential. The fixed line currently tied to a nearby tree shows signs of wear, so be sure to inspect it thoroughly before use or plan your own anchor setup. The approach scramble requires steady footing, and wet conditions increase risk of slips.
Approach anchors with care due to loose and unstable ground at the top.
Bring extra pro to supplement fixed hangers, especially if choosing the right variation.
Avoid climbing after rain when the roof and ground can become slick and unstable.
Check the condition of the fixed line on the nearby tree before relying on it for rappel.
The route’s protection consists of two hangers with rings at the top of the left variation, suitable for top roping. The right side offers no fixed gear, meaning you'll need solid trad placements or to climb it on lead. Loose debris near the anchor zone calls for caution; consider bringing gear to build a solid rappel from a nearby sturdy tree, as the existing fixed line is deteriorating.
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