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St. Vitus' Dance: The Apron's Bold Trad Challenge in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad
crack climbing
multi-pitch
offwidth
exposed traverse
Squamish
granite
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
St. Vitus' Dance
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"St. Vitus' Dance offers a robust five-pitch trad climb on The Apron’s towering granite face in Squamish. With technical jams, exposed traverses, and a challenging offwidth, it’s a route that demands precise gear choices and calm nerves while rewarding climbers with spectacular views and a genuine sense of rock mastery."

St. Vitus' Dance: The Apron's Bold Trad Challenge in Squamish

St. Vitus' Dance stakes its claim on the towering granite walls of The Apron in Squamish, British Columbia, offering five pitches of committed traditional climbing that tests both finesse and resolve. The climb begins with an accessible 5.7 approach, weaving through a patchwork of trees and cracks that set the stage for the bold jamming to come. At the base of a stunning 5.9 jam crack, a small square of carpet at the belay signals you’ve caught the right line—and sets a tone of focus and precision that continues upward.

Pitch two powers through a direct variation: a right-facing dihedral demanding thin protection and a left mantel move onto a ledge. This section requires clean technique and confidence, making it a defining moment early on. As you continue, the third pitch stretches further—a long, physical push starting with inviting hand jams, culminating in a wide fist offwidth. This transition intensifies both the technical challenge and mental game. Placing protection here calls for careful strategy, especially when considering the importance of saving your #3 Camalot for the upcoming belay.

The fourth pitch stands as the route’s centerpiece, with a well-exposed traverse across conflicting crack systems. It’s the climb’s crux: sustained 5.9 climbing with pockets of thin gear placements demanding steady nerves. This pitch isn’t just a test of climbing skill; it’s a passage where the rock seems alive—its rough texture and shifting angles keeping you alert and engaged. Reach the final pitch, and the tone shifts to a short but rewarding sequence of hand jams beneath a roof. Don’t let its brevity fool you—this pitch packs a punch of technical climbing that leaves you buzzing. A final easy slab leads safely to a belay near The Apron's summit, but the options don’t end here.

Coming down requires planning. The descent offers multiple routes: scramble up to Broadway Ledge, rappel via a series of four established anchors, or take the alternative Memorial Crack climb. The rappels demand a solid 60m rope for smooth exits, and attention to anchor locations on the climbers’ left side is vital. Each rappel delivers a gradual reminder of the wall’s scale, offering panoramic views that reinforce why this climb is a Squamish staple.

Gear essentials include a single rack of Camalots from 0.5 to #3, with doubles around the #2 and #3 sizes, and possibly a #3.5 for comfort on wider sections. Small cams and nuts—like Aliens and TCUs—fill in the protection gaps where gear can be sparse or placements tricky. Preparation here pays dividends: clean placements add confidence as the climb’s exposure builds.

Climbers discovering St. Vitus’ Dance will find a route that blends measured adventure with technical demands. While not the longest, every pitch is deliberately crafted to test crack climbing skills and mental focus, all beneath Squamish’s towering granite monoliths. The scramble and descent options emphasize the need to be as prepared with your feet as your hands, rounding out a full climbing day in one of Canada’s premier trad areas. Whether you’re stepping up from easier routes nearby or seeking a bold addition to your Squamish tick list, St. Vitus' Dance promises a well-earned sense of accomplishment paired with the stirring energy of mountain granite shaping your every move.

Climber Safety

The exposed traverse on pitch four requires careful footwork and confident placements—fall potential can be serious. Anchors on descent rappel stations should be inspected before use, and the final slab can become slick after wet weather. Scrambling down after the climb includes route-finding challenges, so carry a topo or GPS.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and give yourself ample time on the descent.

Save your #3 Camalot for the belay at the top of pitch three; it’s essential.

Bring a 60m rope to complete all rappel stations without issue.

Check rock conditions and avoid the route after heavy rain to reduce slipping risk, especially on the slab at the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on St. Vitus' Dance is true to form with a tangible crux on the exposed fourth pitch, where sustained crack climbing demands precise technique and solid gear placements. While the grade feels attainable for strong trad climbers, the offwidth section adds a mental hurdle that can make the rating feel stiffer. Compared to other Squamish 5.9s, this route leans more toward sustained jamming with fewer resting spots, rewarding those comfortable with offwidth and thin gear.

Gear Requirements

A single rack of Camalots from 0.5 to #3, with doubles in the #2 to #3 range and possibly a 3.5, provides solid protection. Small cams and nuts are important for technical placements, especially Aliens and TCUs, complemented by a full rack of nuts for crack variations.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
multi-pitch
offwidth
exposed traverse
Squamish
granite