"St. Valentine's Slab offers a focused slab climbing experience east of Bishop’s popular granite buttresses. Featuring technical routes that emphasize small edges over friction, this area invites climbers to refine their balance and precision amidst the high desert terrain."
St. Valentine's Slab offers a distinct climbing experience within the Bishop area’s rugged Eastern Sierra landscape. Facing east, this slab lies just below the more prominent Laundromat and Kadawn Buttresses, presenting a more subtle but technically engaging side of the rock. The climbs here focus predominantly on precise footwork and balance, rewarding those comfortable with small edges rather than relying solely on friction. The rock itself varies in quality—some sections are solid and reassuring while others demand extra care and attention, underscoring the need for solid route-reading skills and cautious protection placement.
Most routes on St. Valentine’s Slab are single or two-pitch affairs, making this an excellent spot for climbers looking to sharpen slab technique without investing the commitment required by longer alpine routes. The climbs require a 70-meter rope and a small rack, enabling safe negotiation of the pitches and some of the standout lines that flirt with modest exposure and intriguing features. For those invested in classic hard slab moves, the standout route is Hallmark Holiday (5.10b), a climb rated with three and a half stars that invites climbers to test their delicate edging skills in a high desert environment.
Approaching the slab is straightforward yet scenic. From the turnout northeast of the Pine Creek Canyon trailhead parking (near the PSOM area), a faint trail and concrete walkway lead northward toward a broad, rocky gully. The path narrows as you ascend on mixed rock and dirt before delivering you to the large slab distinguished by a short low roof at its center. The approach takes about 15 to 20 minutes and offers a quiet prelude to the climbing ahead amid the shifting light and crag shadows of the early morning.
At 7,121 feet elevation, the environment around St. Valentine's Slab moderates temperature extremes typical of the Eastern Sierra, with the east-facing wall warming quickly in the morning sun but cooling off in the afternoon shade. Climbing is best in spring through fall to avoid winter snow and wet conditions that can make slabs treacherous. This exposed slab can feel slick when damp, so timing your ascent around dry weather is key to safe and enjoyable movement.
Protection here is best handled with a light rack—small cams and nuts will cover most placements, although a 70-meter rope is essential for full pitch descents and some longer climbs. The rock’s variability means that climbers should carefully evaluate each piece of gear as placements can occasionally be shallow or located on less solid sections.
Descent from St. Valentine's Slab generally involves rappelling back down the routes or downclimbing to the base, so climbers should be comfortable with both techniques and always double-check their set-up for safety. The location within Pine Creek Canyon, part of Bishop’s renowned climbing environment, offers sweeping views of the Eastern Sierra’s vast rocky ridges, providing a quiet but stirring backdrop to your technical exploration.
St. Valentine’s Slab embodies a pure slab climbing atmosphere that rewards focus and finesse. It’s an excellent complement to Bishop’s more aggressive buttresses, allowing climbers to shift their attention to balance and foot precision. For climbers seeking to dial in slab technique against an iconic high desert backdrop, this area is a compelling—and achievable—destination. Packed with a handful of quality routes and the striking Hallmark Holiday among them, this slab is a must-visit for those who appreciate the subtle challenge of edges over big holds and the nuanced art of slab climbing.
Rock quality here is mixed; some sections are less solid, so double-check all protection and move deliberately. The slab surface can be slick when damp or early in the day with lingering moisture. Also, rappelling requires attention and proper rope management to avoid rope drag or twists.
Start your climb early for dry rock and morning sun on the east-facing slab.
Bring a 70m rope to comfortably reach the top and safely rappel down.
Carry a small rack focusing on smaller cams and nuts for protection placements.
Check the rock carefully before trusting gear due to mixed rock quality.
A 70-meter rope and a small rack of cams and nuts are required for some routes. The rock quality varies, so careful gear placement is essential for safety.
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