"Sport 400 weaves an accessible yet rewarding story across seven pitches on a vast rock slab in Charlevoix. Its moderate grades and extended length invite both steady effort and momentary challenges, making it an essential climb for those exploring Quebec’s rugged cliffs."
Sport 400 stands apart in Quebec’s climbing scene with its extended series of moderate pitches scaling a stunning rock slab. This route invites climbers into a day-long adventure, covering 1300 feet over seven pitches that range mostly from 5.3 to 5.7, with a challenging 5.9 move available on the final pitch for those seeking a test of skill. From the first step, the route traces an easier slab before veering into progressively more vertical terrain, demanding steady focus and a steady hand.
The approach itself is a venture: plan for roughly six hours from car to car, including access, climbing, and descent. The path winds through the lush Charlevoix region, passing through dappled forest and rocky clearings that offer glimpses of the distant hills. Be mindful to pack essentials—a robust jacket to counter changing weather, ample water for the exertion, a snack to fuel midway, and a reliable headlamp in the event your descent encroaches on twilight.
Pitch one begins at 5.3 with a long 66-meter slab climb. Simultaneous climbing is feasible here with 60-meter ropes, speeding up progress on this lengthy section. Following pitches lead climbers vertically through a variety of features — pitches two and three stay moderate at 5.4 and 5.6, respectively, where you can choose to bypass a copse of junipers on the right or push direct through them for a more committed line. Pitch four trends left, caution advised as some belay anchors sit near loose rock; careful placement here is key.
Exposure increases as you rise, particularly on pitch five, where a bolt near the anchor stands out but leads nowhere, reminding climbers to trust their gear choices rather than fixed protection. The traverse on pitch six snakes left again through trees, offering a bit of respite before pitch seven’s defining moment: a small roof crack that offers two options—charge a 5.9 crux directly to the left or take a broken corner on the right at a gentler 5.7 difficulty.
The route is fully bolted with solid anchors throughout, but its length and sustained effort call for thorough preparation. Bring at least 16 quickdraws, including a couple of longer runners to reduce rope drag around corners. Double ropes are recommended for rappelling and safety, though clipping both ropes into every bolt can create excessive friction—strategize your clipping to maintain smooth movement on the wall.
Charlevoix’s rock is generally stable but be alert for sections where loose rock may lurk near belays or traverses. The descent involves rappelling each pitch, requiring two ropes of 60 meters or more. This means while the climb is straightforward in protection, it demands strong rope management and attention to detail on the way down.
Overall, Sport 400 offers a blend of adventure and approachability, allowing climbers to experience the grandeur of Quebec’s outdoors without extreme technical grades. It’s an ideal challenge for those looking to stretch endurance over numerous pitches with varied terrain, perfect for a spring to early autumn outing. Staying aware of shifting weather and daylight hours will ensure this multi-pitch journey remains as safe as it is memorable.
Loose rock near some belays requires extra caution—test holds carefully before trusting them. The approach and descent are long and exposed to weather changes; always carry adequate clothing and a headlamp to safely manage unexpected conditions or delays.
Start early to ensure enough daylight for the full climb and descent.
Pack a weatherproof jacket; conditions can shift unexpectedly.
Bring a headlamp in case you descend late or delays occur.
Double rope technique can ease rope drag on traverses and corners.
Fully bolted route requiring 16 quickdraws including 2 longer runners to limit drag. Use two 60m+ ropes for efficiency and rappelling. Avoid clipping both ropes into every bolt when leading with doubles to reduce friction. Anchors are solid bolts; rappelling each pitch requires both ropes.
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