"Split Leggings is a sharply technical 45-foot sport route on Old Baldy, featuring a demanding right traverse followed by a pinpoint crux on crisp crimps. This climb is ideal for climbers looking to sharpen finger strength in a well-protected, natural setting."
Located in the rugged and quieter corners of Ontario South Bouldering and Rock, Split Leggings offers a focused and spirited challenge for climbers seeking technical sport routes with a sharp edge. This 45-foot climb springs to life on Old Baldy, sitting within The Alley area, a favored spot for those who want a blend of crisp moves and a manageable pitch. From the start, you’re met with a downward traverse that demands balance and precision—every foothold and hand placement counts as you navigate rightward before the wall flares to a pulse-raising crux. Here, two sharply defined crimps call for confident grip and body positioning, testing finger strength and composure under pressure.
The rock’s texture under your fingers offers solid friction, making the sequence feel bold but fair. Above the crux, the final moves flow cleanly, rewarding those who have kept their focus on intricate footwork. Despite the route’s relatively short length, it packs a satisfying degree of complexity, appealing to climbers comfortable in the 5.10c range who want well-bolted protection and a clear line.
Approaching Split Leggings involves navigating a moderate trail through mixed forest terrain, often scattered with lichen-covered rocks and the occasional song of local birdlife. The setting is quietly watchful, with the rock faces receiving a nice balance of morning light and afternoon shade, making it an ideal climb for spring through early fall.
Protection on the route consists exclusively of fixed bolts and anchors, giving peace of mind while working the moves. The crux section demands precise clipping and body tension, so ensure your quickdraws are well-placed before committing. For gear, stick with lightweight sport racks, focusing on quickdraws and a reliable harness setup.
Local climbers recommend timing your climb before the heat of the afternoon or right after dawn when the air is crisp and the rock offers maximum grip. Staying hydrated is key; bring at least two liters for the hike and climbing session, paired with supportive climbing shoes capable of edging on crimps and smearing on slab sections. The trail is manageable but involves a short skirmish through rocky ground, so sturdy hiking shoes for the approach are advisable.
Whether you’re brushing up on crimp techniques or seeking a solid warm-up in a less crowded spot, Split Leggings delivers an engaging climb framed by Ontario’s steady wilderness. The route’s straightforward line, solid protection, and tangible rock offer a genuine adventure that’s both approachable and rewarding.
Pay extra attention during the initial rightward traverse, where missteps can lead to awkward falls due to the position of bolts. Rock quality is generally solid, but approaching and clipping clips during the crux demand calm and deliberate moves.
Start your climb early to avoid heat and maximize grip.
Bring sturdy shoes for the rocky approach trail.
Hydrate well; pack at least two liters for approach and climb.
Double-check quickdraw placement before the crux to maintain flow.
Equipped with bolts and anchors, Split Leggings demands standard sport climbing gear. Quickdraws are essential for efficient clipping on the tricky traverse and crux. Light rack recommended given the single-pitch nature.
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