"Sphinxter delivers pure roof bouldering in an idyllic Wyoming setting, with approachable classic lines and sweeping views just outside Cody. Its short approach, quality landings, and two must-try problems make it a favorite for both newcomers and seasoned stone addicts."
At over 5,200 feet above sea level, where Wyoming’s big sky is cut by rugged limestone outcrops, the Sphinxter boulder waits for those eager to pull hard on roof problems and soak in a sense of open-air adventure. Just outside Cody, in the Rattlesnake/Sphinx area, this compact yet striking chunk of stone has earned a spot in the local climbing dialogue—not for sheer quantity but for the character it delivers in just a couple of standout lines.
From the moment you leave the trailhead, the Sphinxter feels accessible yet apart. The approach is inviting and straightforward: wander along the main path, veer right at the first fork, and within minutes you’re standing beneath a broad, horizontal roof, its holds and shadows beckoning from the east face. The walk in is short enough for an after-work session, but the boulder’s exposed position and morning light give it that classic wild Wyoming feel. There’s no deep labyrinth of problems to explore—just you, a couple of pads, and two lines that pack a real punch.
The boulder’s main draw is the namesake classic, Sphincter (V0). This problem earns its reputation with a long, horizontal roof climb that offers solid holds and an airy finish. For anyone just getting into roof climbing, or seeking a confidence boost on physical moves with a very chill landing, this is a must-try. A bomber jug sequence leads to techy exit moves where composure beats power. With its friendly grade and excellent landing, it’s an unbeatable entry point to the type of climbing the Sphinxter boulder offers.
If you’re dialed in for something a little spicier, the Sphinxter Traverse (V4) edges up the challenge. Here, precision footwork, grip endurance, and commitment to the rail keep you honest all the way to the end. The traverse rewards efficiency and patience, as you move through the heart of the roof's span. Both classics are defined as much by the quality of movement as by their exposure: you’ll find yourself flat on your back, staring up at the Wyoming sky as you figure out beta—no shortage of grit required, but you’re never far from the safety of your crash pads and spotters.
Conditions at Sphinxter are as straightforward as the climbs themselves. The boulder faces east, catching early morning sun and then shade through midday—ideal for mid-to-late spring and the heart of fall when low humidity and cool temps deliver optimal friction. At 5,235 feet, you’ll want to check the weather before heading out, as afternoon rain and wind can move in quickly, common in the Cody foothills.
Landing zones here are among the better in the area, but a couple of pads are still essential to cushion awkward exits. There’s no fixed gear or hardware to be found; protection is all about careful pad placement and attentive spotting. Because the approach is gentle and the area small, this zone is perfect for quick sessions, warm-ups, or introducing new climbers to the Cody bouldering scene. While wildlife in the area is no joke—expect to see everything from deer to, occasionally, rattlesnakes—respect for the environment and some basic backcountry awareness keep things safe and fun.
Descent couldn’t be simpler: after topping out, a quick and easy downclimb brings you right back to your pack and shoes. For those seeking longer mountain days, combining a visit here with other areas in the Rattlesnake/Sphinx corridor can elevate your adventure.
Sphinxter isn’t about numbers or overwhelming scale—it’s about style, scenery, and the visceral satisfaction of pulling through one of Cody’s best roofs. If you value quality over quantity and want your day measured in smiles rather than sent problems, this is one stop you’ll return to every time you’re in town.
Always assess pad placement carefully before trying the roof problems; while landings are level, awkward swings off the traverse can send you sideways if you’re not attentive.
Arrive early for the best friction—the boulder faces east and catches the sun early.
Bring extra water; the approach is easy but there’s little shade through midday.
Keep an eye out for snakes near the base rocks during warm weather.
Pad placement matters—use at least two pads for full landing coverage and consider pad stacking near roof exits.
Bring two to three pads for solid coverage under the roof, and a good spotter for the traverse and dynamic exits.
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