"Sphincter Crack offers a focused trad experience on Bigfoot Mating Grotto’s southeast face, blending moderate difficulty with technical crack sequences. A perfect route for those looking to hone their trad skills in the remote Redwood Coast landscape."
Sphincter Crack stands as a distinct test of trad skill on the southeast face of Bigfoot Mating Grotto, part of the untamed Land Of The Lost cluster along California’s Redwood Coast. This single-pitch, 60-foot diagonal crack sweeps left and upward, inviting climbers into a sequence of technical moves framed by the ruggedness of old growth forest shadows and the raw energy of the coast's temperate air. The climb’s modest 5.8- rating belies the unique challenges posed by scattered lichen and loose rock, demanding attentive footwork and precise gear placements from anyone willing to engage with its line.
Approaching Sphincter Crack means setting out on an access path that winds through dense foliage, the scent of damp earth and cedar setting a grounding atmosphere before the vertical adventure begins. The crack itself, low-angled yet complex, threads through a rock face peppered with shorter intersecting seams, creating a hands-on puzzle best suited for those looking to reinforce their crack climbing technique in a wild setting. The first ascent, famously achieved onsight and freestanding, speaks to the climb's blend of adventure and technical merit.
Protection consists mainly of nuts and a rack up to a #3 cam, with placements that require patience and a careful eye to avoid the occasional unstable block lurking within the rock’s surface. Once at the top, climbers face a choice: follow a hand crack to the left that leads into a well-established gear anchor, or move right over steeper bulges toward a bolt anchor that can feel awkward but secures a solid top-rope or rap. Both options provide safe, sensible options to conclude the climb.
This route’s appeal is in its pragmatism and no-nonsense encounter with nature’s imperfections—the scattered lichen challenges grip, while loose sections test trust in one’s gear and skill. For trad enthusiasts seeking a grounded outing with authentic exposure and manageable length, Sphincter Crack offers a rewarding venture where focus and flow meet the rugged personality of the Redwood Coast cliffs.
Timing your ascent in the cooler parts of the day is advised to avoid overly slick rock surfaces, especially after coastal fog or rain. Footwear with sticky soles and a good range of cams will complement your approach, ensuring you can move confidently through each section. The surrounding area, away from crowded routes, provides a refreshing quiet, broken only by the occasional call of coastal birds and the steady breath of forest wind.
Sphincter Crack is not just a climb—it’s a tangible step into a primal landscape that demands respect, skill, and presence. Ideal for climbers ready to sharpen their crack climbing while savoring a stretch of California’s raw coastal wilderness, this route is a straightforward yet compelling test of traditional technique.
Loose rock and lichen-covered surfaces necessitate cautious climbing and well-placed gear. Be ready to remove or secure unstable blocks. Anchor options vary in security; choose anchors carefully to ensure a secure descent.
Start from the very bottom to follow the full line; don’t shortcut using intersecting shorter cracks.
Double-check placements for stability—some rock can shift when weighted.
Approach early in the day for drier conditions and better friction on lichen-covered sections.
Prepare to anchor either left via hand crack or right onto the bolt setup for descent.
Bring a set of nuts plus a single cam rack to #3 size. The rock’s loose blocks require cautiously placing protection and thorough cleaning before trusting the holds.
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