"Space Jam in the Valhalla Mountains is a six-pitch alpine trad and aid route that challenges climbers with sustained crack climbing and technical roof sequences. This demanding 5.11d A1 line tests both endurance and gear placement skill high on Mount Gimli."
Space Jam offers a demanding blend of trad, aid, and alpine climbing high in the Valhalla Mountains, challenging even experienced climbers with its sustained 5.11+ pitches and demanding crack techniques. This route, established by Jt Croston and Shawn Tasker in July 2014, stretches over six pitches and roughly 500 feet, weaving through slightly overhanging terrain that demands both power and finesse. The climb's character is defined by open-hand layaways that test your endurance and jamming sequences that call to mind classic crack-climbing masters. Each pitch presents a unique puzzle: from the introductory moderate ramp and the technical face climbing with bolts, to a crux pitch requiring precise finger-to-hand jams on a sweeping crack.
The route’s identity revolves around its varied climbing styles across broken, discontinuous cracks, chimneys, and minor roofs—all demanding steady hands and a well-rounded arsenal of gear. Pitch three stands out as the heart of the climb, a relentless 30-meter transition that requires traversing left onto a finger crack after a bolt and threading your way through continuous jams and layaways. Protecting the climb requires a full rack of BD cams from 0.2 to 3, a #4 cam, and a set of nuts, as placements can become trickier on the upper pitches, especially where small roofs and pins come into play.
Beyond the climbing, the setting on Mount Gimli offers a stark alpine environment where weather can shift quickly, reinforcing the need for thorough preparation. The approach follows a high mountain setting in the Kootenays West area, with an access that demands stamina before the technical challenge even begins. The descent calls for careful rappel strategies on double 60 meter ropes using established stations, many marked by bolts and slung rock, where attention to back clipping and rope management is crucial for safety.
Space Jam’s sustained difficulty and mix of free and aid climbing make it a demanding objective, suited for those comfortable with multi-pitch alpine trad climbs and capable of adjusting to varying styles mid-route. The rating of 5.11d A1 PG13 reflects both the technical moves and the need to manage protection in places where rock quality and placement options fluctuate. Climbers should be equipped for a full day of complex moves and prepared to bail if aid proves too involved on the highest pitch. Ultimately, this climb delivers an authentic alpine trad experience with a technical edge, demanding full attention from the first pitch to the final rappel.
Pay close attention while rappelling — back clipping is essential to avoid gear tangles and reach all belay stations safely. The rock quality deteriorates somewhat on the top pitch, increasing risk when placing protection, so assess placements carefully and be ready for aid moves if needed.
Start early to avoid afternoon electrical storms common in the alpine.
Wear stiff-soled shoes to handle the mix of crack jams and face climbing.
Carry extra tat for rappelling, as stations require careful clipping and rope management.
Prepare for variable rock quality above pitch six that may require aid techniques.
Bring double sets of Black Diamond cams from 0.2 to 3 inches, plus a #4 cam and a full set of nuts to protect an array of crack sizes. Prepare for less reliable placements on the upper pitches, with pins and bolts supplementing the protection.
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