Rising sharply within the rugged embrace of the Joffre Group, the Southeast Face of Mt. Joffre challenges adventurers with a raw blend of alpine snow and exposed scrambling. This route, often considered the mountain’s classic ascent, invites a careful balance of endurance and route-finding skill. From the hut, the journey begins on a clearly marked trail clinging to a broad shoulder that overlooks the anniversary glacier—a crisp, gleaming expanse of ice daring you onward. This area offers practical camping spots, perfect for settling in before the push upward.

Leaving the comfort of the shoulder, climbers face a choice between two distinct approaches. The first option presses through a steep snow gully that narrows as it climbs, with angles pushing to nearly 50 degrees, demanding steady calf power and focused breathing as you gain a thousand feet without respite. This section tests your mettle but rewards with a small shoulder featuring distant views toward Mt. Matier, a quiet moment before the terrain shifts.

Here, the snow ends and scrambling begins across mostly solid third-class rock. While the ascent eases in gradient at this juncture, the rock remains uneven, occasionally steep, and requires confidence on exposed footing. Navigating either upward left directly over the snowfield or circumnavigating right through a broad ramp leads to a bowl-like depression cradling the snowfield. From there, a short walk left brings you to a ridge top with two options: continue directly upward on the ridge or face a tricky crossing of the Australian Couloir — a steep, sharp cut in the mountain boasting slopes of 60 degrees. Though the couloir is surmountable, many prefer to avoid its exposure by tackling a fourth-class notch on the ridge, which snakes close to the summit and provides a safer yet demanding move to the peak.

Route two offers a contrasting path, skirting left and then ascending the Anniversary Glacier’s southern flank. Here, a less direct but more gradual snow traverse leads into a rock gully known for loose debris. This section requires heightened caution; the unstable rock tests your ability to move deliberately yet efficiently. Eventually, this path reconnects with the shoulder described above, funneling climbers to the final scramble toward the summit. Combining the two routes — ascending the steep snow gully and descending via the glacier traverse — not only delivers variety but an engaging alpine circuit.

Key gear consists mainly of ice axes—preferably two to maintain secure self-belays on the steeper snow sections—and sturdy, crampon-equipped boots. The climb can often be tackled without a rope due to the short nature of exposed fourth-class moves and loose rock sections that provide little reliable protection. While carrying ice screws, nuts, and cams is sensible for variable conditions, many find they remain unused in firm snow scenarios. Self-awareness and careful route selection outweigh heavy hardware the mountain's challenges.

The summit offers expansive views over the Sea to Sky corridor with rugged peaks like Mt. Matier standing watch. Wind whispers through the ridges here, urging climbers to savor a moment of quiet triumph. Descending demands careful attention to route choice and snow conditions, especially on the glacier boot ski, which can bring the journey to a swift close when conditions align.

By blending demanding snow ascents with rocky scrambles and glacier travel, the Southeast Face on Mt. Joffre rewards those who come prepared with a deeply authentic alpine experience. The synergy of physical challenge, thoughtful navigation, and the raw beauty of the terrain makes this route a standout in British Columbia’s Sea to Sky wilderness.