Stretching across the rugged spine of Old Settler in British Columbia's Fraser Valley, the South to North Traverse carves a demanding yet rewarding path for alpine climbers seeking a blend of mellow scrambling and technical moves. Beginning near Daiphy Lake, the route quickly rouses your senses with a steady ascent to the col beneath the southern summit. From there, the climb follows the south ridge just right of the crest, mostly maintaining a comfortable 3rd class scramble, interrupted by a defining 20-meter chimney that leans into 4th class territory—a test of firmness on feet and hands.

Beyond this opening challenge, the route demands focus as it settles into two sustained pitches climbing through 4th to easy 5th class moves. The first pitch ventures up a corner system calling for careful placements and steady footwork, especially as the terrain tightens and transforms under your grip. Reaching the central summit, marked by a weathered helipad, you catch your breath and take in the stark mountain air spread wide across the valley below.

The traverse now shifts westward, threading a 15-meter step rated stiff 4th class that questions commitment with no easy fallback. Following this, the route offers options: either rappelling or downclimbing 60 meters to the north-central col. This decision will hinge on confidence and conditions, as the terrain remains exposed and unforgiving here.

The final leg ascends the north summit, the highest point, where 3rd class scrambling takes over once again. This last stretch rewards climbers with panoramic views of Fraser Valley’s forests and jagged peaks beyond, the quiet punctuated only by the sharp clack of boots on stone and a high mountain breeze that feels like an old companion.

Gear requirements are light—a few large nuts and slings suffice, emphasizing the route’s alpine ethic of simplicity and minimal impact. The moderate length of 2,500 feet over three pitches demands efficient movement and attention to weather, as afternoon storms can sweep in swiftly.

Ideal timing for the traverse is late summer when snow has mostly retreated, and rock surfaces offer reliable friction. The southern aspects receive early sun, warming the rock but leaving cooler shadows that offer respite during demanding sections. The route’s remoteness ensures a sense of solitude, but it also means a thorough plan for water, timing, and emergency preparedness is essential.

In all, the South to North Traverse on Old Settler merges an adventurous alpine flavor with accessible climbing challenges. It invites climbers who want a step beyond the standard scramble—an experience that balances bold moves and steady rhythm across a rugged ridge crowned by soaring views.