"The South Ridge on Phantom Tower presents an invigorating alpine climb blending low 5th class rock, snow fields, and exposed ridge traverses. Climbers will navigate loose terrain, rappel steep pitches, and experience remote wilderness above the Upper Tellot Glacier."
The South Ridge on Phantom Tower offers a raw and demanding alpine experience that challenges both your technical skill and mental fortitude. Starting from Sunny Knob, expect a steady uphill hike that quickly shifts from rugged trails to scrambling through low 5th class rock interspersed with persistent snowfields. About 3,000 vertical feet of ascent leads you to the base of Phantom Tower, where the terrain shifts dramatically.
The initial approach demands careful footing; the trail through rock and snow flows underfoot with the mountain seemingly exchanging its mood with every step—you’ll feel the weight of the glacier-fed winds and the crunch of ice beneath your boots. At Phantom Tower’s base, the right-side traverse introduces a challenging rappel down a notoriously loose pitch. This tricky descent requires patience and thorough gear checks, but it rewards with safe access to a large notch well suited for bivouacking. Here, the mountain’s silence presses in, offering a rare moment of stillness amid relentless verticality.
From the notch, climbing resumes over a glacial snowfield angled upwards and to the right, veering to a smaller notch before the rock buttress ascent to the ridge crest. This section breaks into multiple pitches, some reaching 5.9 in difficulty, combining steep rock moves with the unpredictable bite of alpine snow. The rock is varied—expect loose blocks and exposed segments that demand steady nerves and careful route finding.
Traversing along the ridge crest is both a test and a reward: the land leans sharply underfoot, blocks shift with faint echoes of movement, and exposure widens your horizon to sweeping views of the broader Waddington Range. The summit block can be topped in a single, sustained traverse pitch that stitches together technical moves with a demanding endurance climb. Though the route’s grade is moderate, the sustained exposure and mixed snow and rock terrain add layers of challenge.
Descending calls for precision: retrace steps to the notch below the summit, then rappel down the ice and snow gully on the mountain’s back side to reach the Upper Tellot Glacier. Here, secure anchors and cautious rope management are essential as frozen surfaces can shift subtly, reminding climbers of the mountain’s ever-changing states.
For gear, bring a medium-sized rock rack to cover the varied crack systems and anchor points, bail gear for the loose rappel pitch, and a couple of pickets to anchor snow sections securely. The South Ridge climb rewards those prepared for a blend of rock and snow with a taste of high alpine adventure that remains approachable for moderate trad climbers comfortable with mixed terrain and exposure.
The rappel down the loose pitch demands extra caution—anchors can be fragile and rock unstable. Loose blocks along the ridge crest require steady footing and avoid dislodging rock onto parties below. Snow sections can conceal unstable ice, so probe carefully and use pickets as needed.
Start early to avoid afternoon weather shifts common in the range.
Check snow conditions carefully, as snowfields vary with seasonal warmth.
Be prepared for loose rock, especially on the rappel pitch and ridge traverse.
Plan for an overnight stay at the large bivy notch for a safer, rested summit push.
Carry a medium-sized rock rack for diverse crack placements, bail gear for the unstable rappel pitch, and a picket or two for snow anchors. Sturdy boots and ice tools may assist in snow sections.
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