Carving your path up the South Face Variation of Phyllis’ Engine in Garibaldi Park offers more than just technical climbing—it delivers a tactile encounter with British Columbia’s rugged alpine spirit. Located just beneath the highest smokestack of the formation, this three-pitch trad route draws you into a varied sequence of cracks that challenge and reward in equal measure. The climb kicks off on the rightmost of three prominent cracks, beginning with solid hand jams before the crack blossoms into an offwidth. Here, persistence pays off as the route shifts through a mix of hand jams, ring locks, and finger locks that keep you engaged and on your toes.

This first pitch steadily climbs to a slanted ledge, a natural resting point offering a chance to catch your breath and soak in the sharp alpine air. The second pitch presses straight upward along vertical cracks before maneuvering right into a hand crack that guides you higher. Except for a brief steeper section near the start and a tricky middle stretch, this pitch maintains a lower angle, which eases the physical demands while still requiring attentive footwork and steady protection placement.

Your final push skirts around the summit’s smokestack to the east face, following another hand crack that leads you to the peak’s summit. From here, rappelling off slung blocks brings you safely back to the base. For spring ascents, the approach on skis is practical but expect patches of ice and remaining snow on the route itself. Packing an ice axe is smart, ensuring you’re prepared to clear out icy sections that cling stubbornly in the cracks.

The setting in Garibaldi Park, perched between the bustling Sea to Sky corridor, gifts climbers with expansive views framed by towering peaks and whispering alpine winds. The remote feel of the area doesn’t hinder accessibility, making it a solid choice for climbers seeking adventure off the beaten trail but within reach of local hubs. Gear up with cams that can handle a broad range of placements since protection can be variable, especially through the offwidth sections and the subtle crack systems.

Whether you’re drawn by the physicality of offwidth climbing or the quiet solitude of a northern alpine route, South Face Variation delivers a climb that balances effort, exposure, and scenery. The variety of crack types makes it a great training ground for trad climbers ready to push into alpine territory, all while surrounded by the steadfast mountains of British Columbia.