"Sorry John! at The Malamute offers an engaging 80-foot trad climb that balances technical face moves with crack climbing and mixed protection. Its crisp slab crux and clean granite make it a subtle gem away from Squamish’s busiest walls."
Carved into the dramatic face of Starr Wall, Sorry John! presents a focused challenge for climbers seeking a sharp blend of crack and face moves paired with varied protection. This single-pitch 80-foot route delivers a steady rhythm, building intensity as you reach the defining crux. Just beyond the third bolt, the rock flattens into an imposing slab that demands precise footwork and control, testing your balance on sparse holds. The climb’s layout surprises with occasional crack features, offering brief moments to jam and rest before shifting back to technical face climbing.
The gear placements alternate between solid bolts and natural features, making standard rack preparation essential but manageable. Expect to use runners and protection ranging from micro cams up to 2 inches, ensuring confidence on the slightly run-out sections. Anchoring atop features two reliable Metolius Rap Hangers that provide a straightforward setup for rappelling or lowering.
Squamish’s towering granite cliffs in British Columbia provide not just the physical challenge but a sensory backdrop of the Pacific Northwest’s wooded slopes and clean mountain air. The approach to The Malamute follows well-worn paths that thread through dense fir and cedar, alive with the hum of nearby creeks and the rustle of forest life, preparing you physically and mentally for the climb ahead.
Though Sorry John! doesn’t see the crowds that rush to more famous lines nearby, its cleanliness and varied moves offer a rewarding experience. Climbers who appreciate mixed climbing techniques and moderate runouts will find this route both engaging and instructive. As the cool morning light touches the wall, the granite surface warms, revealing its subtle grain and texture that anchor each deliberate hand and foot placement.
Before heading out, plan for stable weather, as damp rock will quickly dull the friction needed on the slab crux. Footwear with sticky rubber and precise edging capabilities is essential. Hydrate thoroughly and arrive early to catch the sun warming the face, typically starting mid-morning and lasting well into the afternoon.
Sorry John! deserves a spot in your Squamish tick list, an authentic route that hones your technical skills while offering a moment of solitude amid one of Canada's most dynamic climbing arenas.
Watch your footing during the slab crux; the holds become sparse and require controlled movement. Protection is solid but spaced, so committing only when fully prepared is crucial. The approach trail can be slick after rain—use caution during access.
Arrive early to catch the warming sun on the slab crux.
Use sticky rubber shoes with sharp edging to maximize grip.
Maintain steady hydration; the approach and climbing demand endurance.
Check weather conditions; granite friction drops quickly when wet.
Standard rack up to 2-inch cams covers the gear requirements with five bolts spaced along the route for protection. The anchor consists of two Metolius Rap Hangers offering a secure rappel setup.
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