HomeClimbingSomething Heinous

Something Heinous: A Bold Trad Challenge on Main Face

St. John's, Canada
trad
finger crack
loose rock
high bolt
headpoint
splitter crack
sandy blocks
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Something Heinous
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Something Heinous offers a formidable single-pitch trad climb on Newfoundland's Main Face, combining gritty rock with multiple cruxes that test even seasoned climbers. Known for its sandbagged difficulty and unstable lower sections, this route demands precise gear placement and careful strategy for those ready to face its intense character."

Something Heinous: A Bold Trad Challenge on Main Face

Something Heinous on Main Face demands respect from the moment you step onto its uneven approach. This single-pitch trad route stretches 55 feet of intense climbing, steeped in both physical challenge and mental calculation. The rock here on Avalon Peninsula is raw and unpredictable—portions of it feel solid, while others seem ready to let go beneath your fingers. You start with a boulder problem that puts you immediately on edge, launching upward to clip a high first bolt. Although many climbers have tackled this opener unprotected, a crash pad or a stick clip will add a layer of safety before committing.

From the bolt, you face a choice: push straight up or veer diagonally left. Both lines test your technique and determination with moves flirting between 5.10d and 5.11 in difficulty, showcasing varied but equal challenges. Pay careful attention here, as the rock quality can turn treacherous, especially when moving into the sandy, loose blocks near the crux. These require delicate footwork paired with thoughtful gear placement—micro cams and finger-sized friends fit snugly to back up your moves on the less stable sections.

Beyond this uneasy terrain lies the pièce de résistance: a splitter finger crack that overhangs with undeniable character. This final section is a powerful mix of finger jams and body tension, coaxing you through crimps and resting pods up to the top. The crack preserves the best qualities of the climb—exposure, commitment, and an unforgiving technical style that rewards precise foot placement and steady breathing.

Given its reputation for sandbagging and loose rock, Something Heinous is often headpointed or done on toprope. Even then, vigilance is key; the marginal stability of the lower sections calls for caution to avoid dislodging rock or losing gear. This line is not for quick ascents or casual attempts but for climbers who thrive on calculated risks and the gritty thrill of wilderness trad climbing.

Planning your trip here means preparing for unpredictable holds and pockets that dare you take a chance while protecting yourself as best as possible. The location on the Avalon Peninsula offers a cool, often brisk Atlantic breeze that helps keep grip crisp, contrasted with the warmth of sunlit granite. Approach trails are rugged but accessible, rewarding the effort with stunning views of rocky outcrops and the distant sea horizon.

This route is a test of mental grit and versatility with gear. Bringing a standard trad rack with extra micro cams and finger pieces is essential. Stick clips for the first bolt make the opening moves safer and allow you to conserve energy for the technical sections upslope. Keep your helmet on high alert; loose rock is part of the story here, as is the need to respect the mountain’s mood.

If you crave a climbing experience that balances raw exposure with technical skill, wrapped in a setting both wild and beautiful, Something Heinous is a worthy challenge. It’s a snapshot of what Newfoundland’s Main Face can demand—force, finesse, and an uncompromising edge.

Climber Safety

Exercise extreme caution on the lower sandy blocks and unstable holds, especially when leading. Rockfall hazard is real, and placement of gear behind loose blocks demands attention. Even on toprope, avoid hanging directly beneath these unstable sections to prevent injury.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Use a stick clip to reduce risk on the high first bolt.

Carry extra finger-sized cams for tricky placements in loose sections.

Wear a helmet to protect against unstable rockfall.

Plan to headpoint or toprope this route if you’re unfamiliar with its sandbagged cruxes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d PG13 rating reflects the route’s deceptive difficulty. Although some sections border on 5.11 cruxes, the overall grade feels stiff due to the loose rock and sandbagged gear placements. The looseness creates an added mental challenge that pushes this climb beyond a typical 5.10d. Compared to other Main Face routes, Something Heinous demands more caution and deliberate movement.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with micro cams and plenty of finger-sized protection is essential. Bring extra small cams for gear placements behind loose blocks and for building a solid anchor. A stick clip is recommended to safely clip the high first bolt.

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Tags

trad
finger crack
loose rock
high bolt
headpoint
splitter crack
sandy blocks