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Solstice Start: A Trailblazing Alpine Trad Route on Mount Athelstan

Whistler, Canada
arete
multi-pitch
exposure
traditional gear
mixed terrain descent
Length: 2500 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
20
Location
Solstice Start
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Solstice Start tackles a bold arete on Mount Athelstan, combining steady 5.8-5.9 trad climbing with alpine exposure. This 20-pitch route challenges climbers to balance precise protection with endurance through a stunning Sea to Sky wilderness."

Solstice Start: A Trailblazing Alpine Trad Route on Mount Athelstan

Rising sharply above the rugged contours of Mount Athelstan, Solstice Start commands attention with its striking arete that divides the cliffs between Selective Cut and Lillarete. As you step into this climb, you engage directly with a sharp, exposed ridge that demands focus and steady footwork. The initial six pitches follow this prominent spine, testing your gear placements on solid, textured rock that offers reliability but requires vigilance—protection is sparse, so every nut and camming device must be placed thoughtfully to maintain security. The climbing rhythm here unfolds at a consistent 5.8 to 5.9, with sections where the tradecraft of traditional alpine climbing takes center stage, rewarding steady hands and calm judgment.

After navigating the bold arete, the route bends left, merging with Lillarete beneath its signature crux pitch, where a diagonal crack offers both challenge and respite. This transition provides a welcome shift; your fingers find purchase in natural fissures while the views widen to the surrounding peaks, catching glimpses of the Sea to Sky corridor etched below. The entire climb extends approximately 2,500 feet over 20 pitches, rewarding endurance and strategic pacing.

Mount Athelstan’s location north of Whistler positions it as a prized alpine objective for climbers searching for a blend of technical trad climbing and mountain wilderness. The approach leads through dense forest corridors and rugged trails, grounding you in the transition between temperate rainforest and alpine rock. Expect to carry cams up to 3 inches and an assortment of wired nuts; some thin pins will be necessary to bridge sparse protection zones.

Descent requires careful preparation: crampons and an ice axe are essential once you leave the rock and begin the descent down mixed terrain that can hold ice and snow well into the climbing season. The mountain’s unpredictable weather calls for flexible timing—early summer to early fall presents the most dependable conditions but always remain prepared for sudden shifts.

For those ready to push skills on a long, sustained climb with dramatic exposure and sparse protection, Solstice Start offers an unforgettable alpine adventure. While the route demands respect and prudence, it rewards with stunning terrain, strategic climbing, and the thrill of navigating one of British Columbia’s less crowded alpine walls.

Climber Safety

Sparsely protected sections on the arete call for vigilant gear placement and cautious movement. The descent can be hazardous if attempted without crampons and an ice axe due to lingering snow and icy patches that appear unexpectedly beyond the summit.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches20
Length2500 feet

Local Tips

Place protection methodically on the arete—runs can be intimidating but proper gear placement is key.

Start early to avoid afternoon weather changes common in the Sea to Sky region.

Carry an ice axe and crampons for the descent, especially in shoulder seasons.

Prepare for a long day—20 pitches mean pacing both physical and technical endurance.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade reflects the sustained technical demands mingled with runout sections that require confident gear placement and a steady mental game. Compared to nearby Lillarete, Solstice Start feels a bit stiffer in protection, demanding more care on the arete but offering a steady rhythm of climbing that is accessible yet engaging.

Gear Requirements

Wired nuts and cams up to 3 inches are essential, with a handful of thin pins to handle trickier placements. Be ready to bring crampons and an ice axe for the descent, as mixed terrain and lingering snowfields can appear after climbing.

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Tags

arete
multi-pitch
exposure
traditional gear
mixed terrain descent