"Soleil de Soiree traces a sequence of slab cruxes and manageable terrain on the Rusted Goat Wall, offering a well-bolted and thoughtful 5.9 sport climb against the wild, crisp expanse of Yukon Territory. A compelling challenge for climbers eager to test technical slab moves amid remote northern wilderness."
Soleil de Soiree climbs the rugged vertical face of the Rusted Goat Wall in White Mountain, offering climbers a compelling mix of technical slab and straightforward sport climbing across four pitches. The route challenges you to read the subtle features and maintain focus on its sustained 5.9 slab sections while rewarding your efforts with clean bolt placements and a solid anchor system for each pitch. From the first step, the rock feels alive underfoot, shifting from smooth slabs to pockets that ask for precise footwork. The initial pitch demands consistent technique, as the angle eases but the difficulty remains in the balance of body position and finger friction.
After conquering the initial challenge, the climb eases into a more accessible 5.6 section, allowing a bit of recovery but not complete rest—this keeps momentum flowing while prepping you for the next sequences. The third pitch returns to slab climbing, mixing moderate moves with a slight traverse toward a left-leaning sidewall that adds a subtle directional change, breaking the rhythm in an engaging way.
Just when you sense the climb might be winding down, the final pitch injects a surprise—two bolt-protected crux moves provide a fresh burst of excitement that tests your stamina and focus after the previous efforts. This sequence pushes your body while rewarding technique and strategic rest moments.
Beyond the climb itself, the Rusted Goat Wall perches within a wild northern landscape where cool mountain breezes sweep across the rock, and the foothills stretch toward the Yukon’s vast wilderness. Access to the base is straightforward for anyone accustomed to moderate alpine approaches, making it an excellent destination for climbers seeking solid sport routes amid expansive wilderness.
Prepare for variable temperatures as weather shifts quickly here. Solid rubber shoes with sticky rubber will help you lock onto the subtle friction pitches. Hydration is essential—though the route itself is short, the approach and surroundings demand readiness, especially in summer when bug activity rises. Plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat on the exposed slab. Expect clear conditions and bring layers; the Yukon’s freshness can surprise even seasoned adventurers.
Soleil de Soiree offers a measured challenge that balances technical climbing with accessible protection in a remote, towering northwestern setting. It’s a purposeful adventure for those looking to test slabs and endurance without complexity in gear placement—just you, the rock, and the quiet vastness of White Mountain.
Watch your footing on the slab pitches—although the bolts are well-placed, the exposed friction sections can be slick when damp. The approach is uncomplicated but keep an eye out for loose rock near the base. Rappels use fixed rings; inspect hardware before descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the exposed slab pitches.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes to maximize friction on the slab sections.
Bring layers—the temperature can drop quickly even in summer.
Approach carefully during wet weather; the rock can become slippery.
The route is protected by well-placed bolts spaced along each pitch, with bolted anchors and rap rings offering safe belays and straightforward rappels. Sport climbers will find no need for additional trad gear, keeping the rack light and efficient.
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