Snake: A Clean Trad Climb on The Apron in Squamish

Squamish, Canada
trad
multi-pitch
5.9
finger crack
undercling traverse
bolted anchors
the apron
the chief
squamish
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Snake
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Snake on The Apron offers a solid five-pitch trad climb blending steady movement with a concentrated crux. This route rewards focus and technique, providing an escape from the crowds with bolted anchors and smart gear requirements."

Snake: A Clean Trad Climb on The Apron in Squamish

Snake offers a refreshing alternative to the more crowded lines of the Chief, blending approachable trad climbing with subtle technical challenges. This five-pitch route unfolds along The Apron's rock face, welcoming you with an inviting corner on the first pitch that sets a steady rhythm without rushing the body or mind. The rock here feels alive—solid granite that responds to carefully placed fingers and toes, with just enough texture to keep you connected. Venture into the second pitch to experience delicate finger crack climbing, leading you toward the ledge known as “the stage.” It’s a smart mix of balance and sustained movement, with the route’s grade nudging you into focused technique over brute strength.

Pitch three pulls you upward through a clean corner, eased by reliable holds yet demanding precise footwork as you gain height. The rock’s subtle variations start to test your ability to read the line and adjust dynamically, setting the stage for pitch four’s defining challenge. Here, the climb teaches patience; an undercling traverse around a small tree will test your grip and foot placement on thin holds—a crux that separates solid climbers from the hesitant. The thin feet and tricky hand positions require clear-headed moves and bold trust in your gear and movement.

The final pitch relaxes the tension slightly, guiding you up the corner and across a face toward a loose gully that leads to a well-used belay spot. It’s a grounding moment after the crux, giving space to breathe and prepare for the walk off at Memorial Ledge. From this point, you can choose a straightforward descent by following ledges and scattered trees toward better terrain, making the route a balanced climb with an accessible exit.

For route planners, Snake is a solid 5.9 offering with bolted anchors and a manageable protection rack—gear up to 3 inches covers it without needing bulky cams or specialized equipment. Its relative quiet compared to Diedre invites climbers seeking a genuine adventure without the distraction of crowds. The climb’s location on The Apron benefits from consistent seasonal weather patterns typical of Squamish’s temperate climate, making spring through early fall the optimal window for ascent. Morning starts offer cooler rock temperatures and fewer climbers, while afternoon shade eventually provides relief from summer heat.

Navigating the approach involves a steady trail from the base of The Chief, requiring attention to route-finding but nothing overly technical. This manageable hike primes your legs and focus, setting a deliberate pace before you step onto the rock. Snake’s careful blend of moderate grades, thoughtful protection, and engaging moves make it a rewarding climb for both trad beginners looking to push their limits and experienced climbers in search of enjoyable mileage. While the climbing is well-protected, the route’s exposure and sharp granite edges advise deliberate placements and steady movement.

Snake embodies the spirit of Squamish climbing—where commitment meets practicality, and the rock invites both challenge and flow. It’s the kind of route that encourages you to trust your skills and savor each move, offering a climbing experience that challenges the body while grounding the mind in the rhythm of the mountain.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements on pitch four’s undercling traverse—thin feet and limited hand holds require careful balance. The loose gully near pitch five demands attention to avoid rockfall or instability. Bolted anchors ensure solid belay points but always check placements before trusting.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the heat and crowds on The Apron.

Bring a rack up to 3 inches; larger cams are unnecessary.

Approach trail is moderate with some route-finding—follow local beta carefully.

Consider walking off via Memorial Ledge and Broadway for an easier descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Snake feels true to grade with a well-defined crux on pitch four. It demands good footwork and controlled movement on thin feet and tricky underclings, providing a stiff challenge without pushing into 5.10 territory. Compared to classic nearby lines, Snake sits comfortably as a solid intermediate route that’s both accessible and rewarding.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack required with protection up to 3 inches; all belays are bolted, making gear placements straightforward but focused on medium sizes.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
5.9
finger crack
undercling traverse
bolted anchors
the apron
the chief
squamish