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Snagglepuss: A Compact Sport Climb on Mount Maxwell

Salt Spring Island, Canada
dihedral crack
slab climbing
tree aid
multi-pitch
coastal climbing
bolted anchors
moderate approach
Length: 130 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Snagglepuss
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Snagglepuss offers a two-pitch sport climb on Mount Maxwell that balances technical dihedral moves with a slab finish. This route charms with a strategic tree hold that reduces difficulty, making it a rewarding test for climbers eager to refine their technique amid coastal island scenery."

Snagglepuss: A Compact Sport Climb on Mount Maxwell

Snagglepuss presents a focused two-pitch sport climb perched on the rugged Amphitheatre face of Mount Maxwell, Salt Spring Island. The route invites climbers to engage a dihedral crack on the first pitch that edges toward a distinctive tree, offering an unexpected aid that softens the challenge. As you climb, the rough granite presses against your hands, while the faint scent of wet moss drifts up from below. The ascent unfolds into a slab that requires steady footwork and attentive balance, offering a moment to steady your breath as the Strait of Georgia glimmers in the distance. The second pitch shifts tone, easing into a face climb rated 5.9, demanding precise movement across the textured rock with strategic holds that feel almost sculpted for your fingertips. The vertical gain amounts to 130 feet, and with protection spaced through 11 bolts on the first pitch and 5 on the second, Snagglepuss strikes a sweet balance for sport climbers seeking a short but thoughtful outing. This climb is approachable for those dialed into sport routes near the 5.10 range, with the tree on pitch one acting as a welcome secret weapon for those who spot it early. Set against the backdrop of Salt Spring Island’s coastal landscapes, the climb pairs satisfying technical sequences with the fresh, salty air rising from the ocean. Access involves a moderate approach through mixed forest trails on Mount Maxwell, lending a quiet sense of wilderness to the experience. Climbers can anticipate variable weather, so timing your ascent for a clear day ensures the best grip on the often-damp rock surfaces. All told, Snagglepuss is a neat package—compact, practical, and refreshing—which rewards attentiveness and poise more than brute strength. It’s an ideal choice to sharpen technique while enjoying the understated beauty of the Georgia Strait’s offshore islands.

Climber Safety

While bolts are plentiful, climbers should watch for slick patches on the slab and remain cautious around the tree used as a hold, as it can shift unexpectedly under weight. Approach trails can be slippery after rain, so wear appropriate footwear and move carefully.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Use sturdy shoes with reliable edging for slab sections.

Scan for the tree on pitch one early; it makes the route feel more manageable.

Check weather forecasts for dry conditions to ensure grip on the often damp rock.

Allow extra time for the approach, as trails can be uneven and mildly overgrown in spots.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating feels accurate but leans toward the stiff side on the first pitch unless climbers take advantage of the tree, which can significantly lower the difficulty. The second pitch is straightforward at 5.9, providing a nice contrast with more technical face climbing. Climbers familiar with local sport routes on Salt Spring Island will find Snagglepuss balances solid moves with accessible protection.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by bolts: approximately 11 on the first pitch and 5 on the second. The first pitch's tree provides an optional aid, reducing technical difficulty for those who utilize it.

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Tags

dihedral crack
slab climbing
tree aid
multi-pitch
coastal climbing
bolted anchors
moderate approach