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Smoked Salmon: Classic Trad Climbing at Harrison Bluffs

Harrison Hot Springs, Canada
finger crack
stemmings
roof crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
frayed dyke feature
balancy moves
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Smoked Salmon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Smoked Salmon is a demanding trad route at Harrison Bluffs that blends precise finger seam climbing with stemming corners and roof pulls. Its balanced mix of moves and solid gear make it a must-try for trad climbers seeking classic Fraser Valley challenges."

Smoked Salmon: Classic Trad Climbing at Harrison Bluffs

Smoked Salmon offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb that rewards climbers with a series of distinct challenges through its three clear sections. Situated on the East Wall Trail within the rugged Fraser Valley of British Columbia, this 160-foot route carves a compelling line up Harrison Bluffs, inviting solid finger jams, delicate stemming, and a technical crux that demands focus and balance. The approach greets you with a stone patio base, setting a grounded tone before the climb’s rhythm unfolds.

The opening pitch immediately commands respect, starting on pocketed holds that transition into a thin seam demanding precise footwork and finger-sized protection placements. Early gear placements, including small nuts and blue or grey TCU cams, are crucial before negotiating two well-spaced bolts that guard the crux — a balancy move that tests both body positioning and nerves. Once past this challenge, the route eases slightly, allowing for more relaxed climbing secured by small cams and wires that lead confidently to the first major ledge.

The second section shifts focus to a corner crack rated a comfortable 5.6, where the rhythm changes to stemming and hand jams. This pitch invites a different set of movements, where you’ll find secure placements for cams between 1 and 2 inches and wire nuts to protect your progress. The crack provides steady hands-on engagement and a clear route to the second ledge, where a bolted belay marks a natural pause.

The final 20 meters layer on a mixture of climbing styles as the corner crack merges into a seam studded with pods and follows an eroded dyke feature. The climbing here steps up briefly in difficulty to 5.9, though the harder moves are short and interspersed with easier stemming sections. To finish, you’ll move right onto a slab beneath a roof with twin cracks — a technical section requiring powerful pulls and precise placements. Bringing larger cams, #2 or #3 Camalots, will help dominate these moves and reach the last big ledge before the climb’s end.

Descending Smoked Salmon is straightforward: two rappels drop you back to the base, first a 20-meter descent to an intermediate ledge, then a 30-meter rappel to the ground, both stations equipped with rings and chains. The area’s setting in the Fraser Valley assures spectacular views and a sense of remoteness that complements the climbing.

Gear preparation is key for this route. A full rack ranging from small finger-sized gear to #3 Camalots is recommended, with the option of a #4 for the final roof crack, though not always necessary. A triple set of hand-sized cams ensures you’re prepared for the seam and pod features. The variability in protection demands attentiveness to gear placements, especially on the thin seam and roof sections.

Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen traditional skills while enjoying a diverse set of moves, Smoked Salmon stands out as a compelling climb in Harrison Bluffs. Timing your ascent during mid-spring through early fall offers the best conditions, with the route’s east-facing wall welcoming morning sun and shade in the afternoon to keep temperatures comfortable. Whether linking all pitches at once or savoring each section individually, this climb provides a satisfying blend of challenge and reward right in the heart of British Columbia’s climbing scene.

Climber Safety

The route includes exposed sections with thin protection placements, particularly around the crux bolts and roof crack. Be cautious placing gear in eroded features, and ensure anchors for rappels are secure as the descent involves two separate rappels with limited escape options.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the East Wall Trail for the clearest and most direct access to the climb base.

Set off early to take advantage of morning sun on the east-facing wall, which warms up the rock nicely.

Double-check your cams for wear, especially smaller sizes, due to frequent placements in thin seams.

Use two short ropes for rappelling to make the descent smoother and ensure your setup is solid at anchor stations.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Smoked Salmon’s difficulty centers around a crux section early on with balancy moves past two bolts. While the overall grade feels accurate, the short, technical sequences on thin seams and the roof crack require precise technique rather than brute strength. Climbers familiar with moderate 5.9s with balance and finger crack experience will find this route engaging and fair.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack from small rock cams (#0.3 or equivalent) to #3 Camalots is essential for secure placements throughout. Bring a triple set of hand-sized cams (around #1 Camalot) for the seam and pod sections, and consider a #4 Camalot for the roof crack, though it’s not always necessary.

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Tags

finger crack
stemmings
roof crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
frayed dyke feature
balancy moves