"Smart Grid challenges climbers with a standout dyno crux and engaging face climbs in the heart of Fraser Valley’s Sleeping Princess Area. This one-pitch sport route combines calculated power with accessible protection—ideal for those seeking a concise yet invigorating ascent."
Smart Grid offers a focused burst of challenging movement on a single, well-protected pitch that tests your power and precision. Located in the Sleeping Princess Area within the rugged Fraser Valley, this route calls for a mix of technical skill and dynamic confidence. The climb begins with moves borrowed from the first sequence of the nearby Sleeping Princess route, where a stem out right transitions you onto a pronounced rail. This ledge acts as a brief respite, allowing you to steady yourself before launching into the crux: a demanding dyno or a very long reach that requires precise finger strength on crimps. Beyond this, the holds become more generous as you navigate the face, eventually linking into the concluding two bolts of Off The Grid.
This route carries a 5.10+ rating, primarily reflecting the dynamic crux move that feels stiff for the grade—akin to a V2 boulder problem—making it a concentrated test of explosive power. The 70-foot climb offers a compelling balance between bold style and controlled endurance, presenting enough challenge to captivate those looking to sharpen their sport climbing arsenal.
Situated in the remote Fraser Valley, the Sleeping Princess Area provides a quiet backdrop where raw natural beauty meets technical climbing. Forested approaches lead you steadily upward, where the rock’s character shifts, demanding attention with every hold. The combination of the engaged crux and the technical face moves means this route rewards precise footwork, solid body positioning, and mental focus.
Protection consists of five bolts placed to maximize safety through the difficult moves, with an optional 2" piece useful for grounding yourself at the start. The bolting pattern offers peace of mind while encouraging bold movement. Climbers should approach this climb with a solid warm-up and confidence in their dynamic sequences.
Access involves a moderate hike through mixed terrain within the broader Sleeping Princess Area. The approach is manageable but can be slippery after rain; sturdy footwear is recommended. The climb’s wall faces primarily east, making morning sessions optimal to avoid the afternoon heat and to enjoy cooler rock temperatures.
Whether you’re aiming to push your limits on the dyno or simply enjoy a crisp, concise climb with quality rock and efficient protection, Smart Grid stands as a rewarding addition to the Fraser Valley’s diverse climbing portfolio. Expect to leave the wall with a keen sense of accomplishment and inspiration to explore further routes in this underappreciated corner of British Columbia.
Although well-bolted, climbers should be cautious during the crux dyno as missed moves can lead to falls against fairly vertical rock. The optional gear piece at the start adds extra security for the initial moves, helping protect against potential slips in a particularly thin section.
Start early to climb on cooler rock facing east.
Wear sticky rubber shoes that excel on crimps and small edges.
Bring a small 2" cam for optional gear placements near the start.
Approach trail can be slippery after rain—good traction is essential.
Five bolts secure the route, with an optional 2-inch piece recommended for the initial moves shared with Sleeping Princess. Climbers should be prepared for a powerful crux requiring secure finger strength on crimps and the ability to commit to a dynamic move.
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