Sleepy at Little Weston Wall

Leadville, Colorado United States
left-facing corner
trad gear
two-bolt anchor
moderate difficulty
granite texture
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Sleepy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sleepy offers a measured trad climb up gritty, left-tilting corners on Little Weston Wall. This one-pitch line demands focused gear placement and steady footwork, set against the clear mountain air of the Leadville area."

Sleepy at Little Weston Wall

Sleepy presents a straightforward yet rewarding climb on the gritty faces of Little Weston Wall near Leadville, Colorado. This single-pitch adventure begins firmly in a left-leaning corner that challenges you to read the rock carefully—each move feels like a careful negotiation with the diorite dike slicing through the face. As you progress, the rock’s texture demands deliberate footwork and well-placed protection, rewarding steady hands and a calm mind. The moderate corners lead you diagonally upwards and right, threading a natural line that offers both security and subtle exposure. At the top awaits a sturdy two-bolt anchor that secures your descent, a quiet endpoint to this focused route. The surrounding environment adds to the experience: crisp mountain air carries faint pine scents, and the elevation lends a quiet clarity, connecting climbers to the rawness of the Colorado high country. Approach this climb prepared to manage your gear deliberately, as protection relies entirely on natural placements with no fixed bolts along the route itself. Whether you’re warming up for something harder or seeking a solid, moderate trad climb, Sleepy balances approachability with the satisfying intricacies of traditional protection in alpine terrain.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant in gear placements since the route has no fixed bolts. The rock’s gritty texture may encourage confident moves, but loose or poorly seated gear could increase risk. The two-bolt anchor at the top is solid but routinely inspect before committing to the rappel.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Bring a standard trad rack focused on cams for moderate corners.

Footwear with sticky rubber helps with the gritty rock texture.

Start early to avoid afternoon sun exposure on the wall.

Check anchor hardware before descent—it's solid but always good to confirm.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating fits this climb well, reflecting moderate technical moves with accessible protection opportunities. While not overly technical, the gritty rock and route-finding in the corner create a slight mental crux, especially for those new to trad climbs. Compared to other single-pitch lines in the Leadville area, Sleepy offers a friendly yet authentic trad experience without surprises.

Gear Requirements

No bolts on the route, but expect to place traditional gear extensively. The climb finishes at a reliable two-bolt anchor primed for rappelling.

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Tags

left-facing corner
trad gear
two-bolt anchor
moderate difficulty
granite texture