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Sleeping Princess: Sturdy Granite Trad Warm-up in Harrison Bluffs

Harrison Hot Springs, British Columbia Canada
granite crack
single pitch
beginner trad
hand crack
forest approach
dihedral crux
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Sleeping Princess
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sleeping Princess beckons with its solid granite crack and accessible protection, offering a dependable warm-up for trad climbers in the scenic Harrison Bluffs. This 45-foot single pitch rewards steady technique and encourages comfortable rack management in a peaceful forested setting."

Sleeping Princess: Sturdy Granite Trad Warm-up in Harrison Bluffs

Sleeping Princess offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb positioned at the base of the Harrison Bluffs in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. This 45-foot line follows a clean, solid granite crack, drawing climbers with its dependable holds and comfortable protection opportunities. The climb begins with a welcoming hand crack that steadily ascends, inviting you to find your rhythm in the granite’s textured embrace. As you move higher, the route’s character shifts subtly; the final 10 feet introduces a narrowing dihedral that pushes you to refine technique and balance, marking a practical crux that rewards focus rather than brute strength.

The granite here feels firm under your fingers, and the nature of the crack promises consistent placements for cams ranging from thin hand to wide hand sizes. This makes Sleeping Princess an excellent choice for climbers honing crack climbing skills or those looking for a reliable warm-up before tackling the more demanding Left Crack nearby. Positioned amid the distinct Harrison Bluffs landscape, the climb is framed by forested edges and occasional wildlife sounds, grounding you in a quiet wilderness atmosphere.

Getting to the base is a short approach through fir and cedar, guiding you over a well-worn trail with moderate elevation change that sets an easy transition from the warmth of the forest to the cool, exposed rock face. Midday sun illuminates the wall, warming the granite and drying moisture quickly, though early morning or late afternoon climbs provide shadowed respite during warmer months. Adequate hydration and well-fitting crack gloves will heighten comfort and confidence on the route.

Protection is straightforward but essential; expect to place cams as you ascend, especially along the wider hand sections, so bring a well-rounded rack focusing on sizes that fit hand cracks. The dihedral's narrowing top section can feel a bit more technical than the steady below pitches, requiring attentive footwork and gentle pacing. After topping out, the descent is a simple scramble down the talus and forested ledges back to the trailhead, enabling climbers to quickly regroup or link into other nearby classics.

With 22 climbers contributing ratings averaging 3.2 stars, Sleeping Princess earns respect as a solid, beginner-friendly trad route in the area. It combines manageable tech with the quiet power of Fraser Valley granite, delivering an experience that's accessible to novices yet satisfying enough for seasoned climbers looking for quality mileage. It stands as a gateway climb that efficiently builds confidence in traditional crack protection and crack climbing movement while allowing space to enjoy the natural beauty of British Columbia’s southern bluffs.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention when protecting the final dihedral section, as placements become less generous and require precise sizing. Loose rock near the base makes careful footing on the approach important, especially after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day for cooler rock and softer light conditions.

Wear crack gloves to protect hands on the sustained hand crack.

Carry a medium-sized rack emphasizing hand-sized cams.

The approach trail is short but includes some loose rock; wear sturdy footwear.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Sleeping Princess presents a comfortable challenge that feels appropriately graded for novice trad climbers. The crux near the top’s narrowing dihedral adds a touch of technicality, but the overall route maintains a straightforward feel when paced well. Compared to nearby Left Crack, it is notably easier and better suited for those developing crack skills.

Gear Requirements

Cams sized for thin to wide hand cracks will secure the route comfortably. A rack focused on versatile hand-sized protective gear is essential, especially for the narrowing sections near the top.

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Tags

granite crack
single pitch
beginner trad
hand crack
forest approach
dihedral crux